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Old 09-15-2008, 07:56 AM   #1
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Mexico USA
Posts: 10
Colt Mustang trigger

Hello,
Long time lurker, first time poster. I have a stainless Mustang that i'm going to put a C&S aluminum trigger in. I tried to do a search for this problem and couldn't find an answer. if i'm going about this wrong, please tell me. The problem is the trigger pin. When I get the pistol stripped down to the pin, it won't budge. All my reference materials say "drift the trigger pin out to the left". The pin doesn't move one bit. The pistol is in good shape, no oxidation, the trigger moves freely on the pin. I've tried some different lubricants etc. to no avail. Just so you know, i'm a fledgling 'smith. I'm doing my training through AGI [Bob Dunlap] and summer courses at Trinidad. I have good tools and have done some decent work on 1911's and some other pistols. This is the first [of many] interesting problems that I can't seem to solve, and I thought I would throw my hat in the ring and see what other folks thought. Any help would be appreciated!

tarkeg
 
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Old 09-15-2008, 08:33 AM   #2
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 951
Re: Colt Mustang trigger

I've never worked on a Colt Mustang so I can't help You.....I know Bob, If You call Him He can tell You how to get the pin out......Albeit, His reply will use a SEXUAL reference of some kind, but if You've hung out with Bob You know what to expect, KROIL oil or KROIL with silicon, tradename SILLIKROIL will penetrate like nothin'else.....I've pulled sleves from tractor engines others gave up on by usein' SILLIKROIL. Way I look at it is....If it is a pin, the pin went in, so it will come out. I've seen it many times in many different kinds of machinery, sometimes You use all the force You can muster....just as long as you don't destroy what You are tryin' to fix, if that don't work, TIME TO DRILL....... Sometimes a press works best,small punches will bend so You make a bigger punch with a small "TIT" on the end to get the pin started out

Bill Caldwell
 
Old 09-15-2008, 03:58 PM   #3
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Mexico USA
Posts: 10
Re: Colt Mustang trigger

Thanks for the help.. I hope I didn't misrepresent myself, I've never met Bob Dunlap. But he does all the instruction for AGI's Professional gunsmith program which is in DVD form. I can't take 2 years to take Trinidad's full school, so between this course and the NRA summer classes I figured i'd learn something. I've seen regular Kroil in Brownell's, but haven't picked up any yet. I'll also find the sillikroil you mentioned. There's a major shortage of gunsmiths here in New Mexico, so everything I pick up from folks like you is gold. I really appreciate you taking the time to give a rookie like me some advice.
I almost forgot, the dvd course i'm doing came with a couple "certificates" for telephone calls to Bob. If I call him for this Mustang thing, is there anything you want me to say to him? You know, like "Hey Bob, I heard about the time you....."
Again, thanks for the help!
 
Old 01-08-2009, 03:43 PM   #4
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Join Date: Jan 2009
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Re: Colt Mustang trigger

Hello Tarkeg
I am having the same problem with my SS Colt Mustang trigger pin. Did you figure it out? If so what's the trick. Regards, Coltz
 
Old 01-09-2009, 08:28 AM   #5
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Mexico USA
Posts: 10
Re: Colt Mustang trigger

Hello Coltz,
I did a couple of things. I followed Bill's advice and soaked it in a penetrating oil, I didn't have any kroil so I used tri-flow which works pretty well at penetrating and has teflon in it. I've been using that stuff for years on all kinds of things. I stripped the frame down to nothing, and applied the stuff everyday for a week, gently tapping the frame with a nylon hammer, and the pin with a punch all that time. After a week I got more aggressive. Again, following Bill's advice I used a punch that I had broken on a different project. I shortened it, made sure the face of it was square, then made a tiny dimple into the face with a tiny file. That made the end of it slightly concave, and very short. Then I set up the frame so it was completely supported except the pin hole from underneath, and lined up everything as best as I could, held the punch very carefully, and WHAM! That one blow got it moving, and when the shortened punch ran out of travel, the pin moved easily enough to finish it off with a regular punch. Scared the hell out of me, but it worked. Just be prepared for the consequences if you slip with that punch or hammer. Good luck and let me know how you did.

Tarkeg
 
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