Colt Challenger help.. - Pistolsmith
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:10 AM   #1
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Colt Challenger help..

i have a Challenger that has been nickel plated....the slide is pretty loose and it runs good but with the slide so loose the rear sight ends up in a different place when it cycles.....how would i go about tightenin' up?......i put in my vise and gave it a squeeze and it didn't move any and i'm afraid i'm goin' to break it.....any ideas?
 
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Old 04-30-2012, 04:57 PM   #2
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Probably by the same methods people used to convert standard 1911's to Match guns: by staking the frame rails and/or squeezing the slide.

Note that you DON'T squeeze the slide in a vise without using a special insert inside the slide to prevent over squeezing.
Also, there is always a risk of cracking the slide, then you're really SOL.
Most people who squeezed slides used a special vise set up that only gripped the slide at the very bottom, which you can't do correctly with a standard vise.
Where people get into trouble is by using a standard vise and NO limiter insert inside the slide.
With a standard slide and no insert you either over squeeze it and can't un-do it so it can be fitted to the frame, or you hear a "ping" as the slide cracks.

Also, expect damage to the nickel finish whatever method is used.

Frame rails are staked or lowered by tapping with a hammer, but there's an art to this and a very specific technique. You don't just take a hammer and start hammering on the rails.

My suggestion would be to talk to a good custom shop like Cylinder & Slide Shop about having the slide tightened up by whatever method they recommend.
 
Old 05-21-2012, 06:45 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghitch75 View Post
i have a Challenger that has been nickel plated....the slide is pretty loose and it runs good but with the slide so loose the rear sight ends up in a different place when it cycles.
The front sight is attached to the slide, too...and your eye will compensate if you're doin' it right. Several years ago, Massad Ayoob used a loose GI pistol to demonstrate it. He shot a tighter group from a sandbag rest than the gun shot from a Ransom rest.

As long as the barrel to bushing fit isn't sloppy, and the fit at the rear of the barrel is reasonably close...the pistol should shoot fine.
 
 
Old 05-22-2012, 04:17 AM   #4
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well i done a little work to the Challenger....found a Woodsman slide with adjustable rear sight on fle-bay that was much tighter and ground off the front sight....drilled and tapped the barrel for a Ruger single six front sight which was taller than the factory one....went from 3" groups at 15y to one ragged hole.....this was bought to make a property pack around piece and more than happy with it now.....screw was one i had need to get a counter sunk one..





 
Old 05-22-2012, 08:06 PM   #5
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Thanks for the followup. impressed with your work, including looking for another slide.
 
Old 05-27-2012, 02:02 AM   #6
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That was me assuming that the Challenger was yet another 1911 variant.

The premise still applies. As long as the rear sight itself isn't moving, the shooter still aligns the sights.
 
Old 09-03-2013, 06:08 PM   #7
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Browning Challenger II

Hi:
My name is Nhopa and I am new to this forum. Recently I purchased a used Browning Challenger II with two magazines from Cabelas in Phoenix. The gun was made in the US in 1980. First of all the magazines don't slide in and out very easily. It looks that on one of them the previous owner tried to file down the two sides but it does not do any difference. I took the gun out to the range and it miss feeds some of the times. Also time to time an empty shell is caught between the barrel and the slide as it moves forward. So to sum it up the gun is a basket case as is. I had couple of Ruger 22's before and never had any problem. I expected the Browning to work as well as the Rugers. So the question is, what is wrong with this pistol?
I guess one lesson to learn from all this is DON'T buy a used gun unless you can try it out or at least return it.
 
Old 09-03-2013, 09:14 PM   #8
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You have at least two different problems. With gun and mags completely unloaded, examine your mags. Any distortion in bodies or lips?

Looking up throught the mag well, any protrusions?

Remove the grips. Do the mags insert easily now?

If you can, remove the mag catch. Do the mags insert easily now?

How does the mag catch look?

If the mags didn't insert easily with the grips and catch removed and you can't see any protrusions, you need to use Dykem or something on each mag to show where something is dragging so you can file it. Oh does this gun have a mag safety?

If the gun is misfeeding only the very first round from the mag, then most likely the mag catch is swinging out into the well and the top round is getting misaligned when it pushes the catch back. If this covers that problem, thank J.B. Wood who wrote Troubleshooting Your Handgun.

Does the gun misfeed and/or fail to eject with only brand/style of ammo? Or more than one?
If the ejector looks normal and the chamber is clean, you either need to either clean/lube the extractor sping(s) and channel(s) or reface/replace the extractor.

Next time for gun different from the one in an existing thread, start a new thread.

Last edited by retDAC; 09-03-2013 at 09:35 PM.
 
Old 09-04-2013, 06:25 PM   #9
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You're in luck.
Master gunsmith Frank Glenn is in Arizona and can no doubt put it in order.

The problem with problem guns and magazines is, you have to KNOW what the problem is before altering anything. Just to start filing and altering in the hope you'll hit on the problem and fix it is usually how guns get ruined.
The gunsmiths First Rule is: Don't change anything unless you know for certain that's it.

My advice, see Glenn:

Frank Glenn-Glenn Custom Complete Gunsmithing Service Glendale AZ
 
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