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| | #1 |
| Member Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 47
| CZ-75 B Finish
Hey Guys, I am going to stipple the front strap on my CZ-75 B and was wondering about the finsih. Does any one know if I can stipple right over it or do I have to have it removed first? |
| | #2 |
| Member Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 45
| Bad looking finish
Rob: It is kind of half *ss to stiple over the existing finish especially if it is a polymer finish. Better to strip the finish and perform the work and refinish the frame. Tim |
| | #3 |
| Member Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 47
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Ok cool, now whats the best way to strip the finish?
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 229
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I did this with a polycoated pre-B... Go to the nearest automotive parts place, and pick up a spray can of automotive paint remover. Strip the gun (detail strip) and spray all poly-coated parts. Mine started wrinkling up within seconds. It will peel/wipe off quickly. Then refinish as you choose. (I buffed mine with a power wire wheel and cold-blued using Brownell's Oxy-Pho Blue. Turned out beautifully. The only down side is that I periodically have to renew the backstrap, which fades with a lot of use. Novum Solutions is apparently good stuff, for home cold bluing. Do a Google Search. If you want to go first class, and have it done, check into hard chrome. |
| | #5 |
| Member Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 47
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Cool Thanks - But I must say after reading this forum i am affraid to detail strip the frame with as bad as you guys make it sound when you put it back together!!
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| | #6 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 229
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Its NOT that bad. The only really harad part is the trigger assembly, which is easy to get out, but hard to get back in, without a "slave"/"pilot" pin to help. Detail stripping is not something you want to try by yourself, the first time, if you haven't detailed stripped before without some sort of guide book, etc. The next time you go to a gunshow, pick up one of the books on handgun disassembly. It'll be full of detailed instructions on how to disassemble the CZ and similar clones... |
| | #7 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 13
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Hi Walt - Nice to see you here . . . . . . I always look forward to your input/posts on the czforum.com sight. So.....I understand how you're doing the detail strip and the 'finish' strip, but how would one get a "satin" or "brushed look" finish on the firearm? And can stippling be done with the at-home-novice-gunsmith using readily available tools? Or should it be left to experts? I see that ut83 (Eric) on czf does a bit, and he claims to be no expert... I'd just like to maybe safely tinker a bit. :wink: |
| | #8 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 229
| Safely tinkering...
I am far from an expert on this topic, but.... I think I'm correct when I write that the "satin" or "brushed look" is generally only seen/possible with stainless or a plated nickel or hardchromed finish. I don't know any way of doing it in a do-it-yourself effort. Unless you're putting a "silver" finish on the gun, you wouldn't see it, anyway. (The EAA Witness line uses a "treatment" over what may be an alloy base to get something like this satin/brushed look but, again, I don't think its a do-it-yourself finish. They call it their Wonder Finish. But when questioned say its a surface treatment rather than a "finish.") The stippling I like best is done with a pointed tool, and is very time consuming. You might try asking some of the gunsmiths elsewhere on this forum for some advice would be helpful. I have one of Eric's guns -- his custom 75B SA -- and he did some "home-brew" stippling on the front and back strap. Its not a real aggressive effort, but it is less "slick" than the stock smooth finish. You might try contacting him about it. He participates here, too, under a different name -- but I don't remember which one at the moment. He has responded several times to other CZ-related issues, here. |
| | #9 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 13
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Thanks! I'll do so.
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| | #10 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 311
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Man.....I know, Im using my real name.........sheesh! What next? ![]() The texture" thats on Walts SA is done with 3 sizes and coarseness? of round files and a bloody lot of patience....stippling may be a little more time consuming.....but I dont think would be any harder than whats on Walts gun. Just practice, until you get the desired effect you want down solid on something similar in steel......and tape off the section you want to do on the gun...and DONT go outside the lines....... ![]() Shoot well. |
| | #11 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 13
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Eric, Thanks for the reply! I don't care for the usual checkering/stippling as is commonly found on the front strap of the typical 1911 grip. I like the subtle texture you did to that SA. Didja just use the round files and a small hammer to create those dimples? Didja have to refinish it of did you do it right on the existing finish and leave it at that? Gary in Pennsylvania |
| | #12 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 311
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Actually, I took material out with the round files by filing....not dimpling them with a hammer. The dimples are just what area is filed down..small sections at at time. I finished it by using AlumaBlack on steel for a light/med grey finish that resists rust but has a different look to it.............. Kept with the 2 tone look......................... Shoot well. |
| | #13 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 13
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I don't mean to be a pain in the neck . . . . But I just looked at the pic you were kind enough to repost for me in CZF. They show the Hakan grips quite nicely, thank you very much !But I cannot see the work you did in the frontstrap. I remember way back when that you did post pics of that area. Couldja either post a good pic here . . . . or send it to me at gary.roberts@tobyhanna.army.mil ?? Thanks. Soooooo . . . . . . did you do the round file by hand, or with the file attached to a Dremel-like tool? After you filed out the little "divots" did you then go over the area with some very fine sandpaper to "mellow" out any ridges? I appreciate your time. I'm building up the guts to try and tinker a little on my own (once I get a sample victim, of course!) |
| | #14 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 311
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I used one size on a dremel tool and did the other two by hand...I tried to mix the angles/location of the areas worked to keep it from looking to consistant. I did scuff it up with some finer scotch brite.....if I scratched it with sand paper....I thought Id have to start over.....which I DID NOT want to do. LOL I slightly recontoured the back strap on SA...just a couple of corners that I made "tighter" so my hand fit a tad better.......but nothing major. I did reshape the grips also to match the new lines created by the contour of the back strap though.....just a blending of the lines kinda thing...... Shoot well. |
| | #15 |
| Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Michigan
Posts: 87
| Far from expert
Hi Guys, I am far from an expert and no gunsmith at all but, I have messed with stippling a bit. I bought a Dremel engraver and it comes with a carbide bit and I bought a diamond bit also. With just a few hours of practice on a piece of semi soft steel tubing cut in half length ways will help you work out a fairly good technique. The dremel has 10 impact or depth settings and I usually use # 7 to 9 give it a try you will be surprised. The dremil engraver was $14.00 so it is a cheap investment. Gary |
| | #16 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 13
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Thanks for the info GMorris!
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