|10-09-2004, 01:20 PM||#1|
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
How do I Change a Striker Spring?
I have a G36. Shot it for the first time and had several FTF I credit to hard primers (S&B ammo). I want to put in a heavier spring to prevent this in the future. Does anyone know where I can get some intsructions on how to do this?
|10-09-2004, 04:22 PM||#2|
Join Date: Aug 2002
I wouldn't necessarily be so quick to rush to changing something so intimately involved in your Glock's safe operation.
If you don't mind my saying so ... and please don't take this wrong, as I'm not being deliberately critical ... but it sounds as though you're making some quick assumptions.
I can't tell you what's happening with your pistol ... not by any means ... because I'm here and you're there.
If you're involved with some sort of agency which has a Glock armorer, though, why not take the pistol to them and let them examine it? (A wild assumption of my own from looking at your profile).
If not, Glock armorers aren't hard to find. As someone once said on another forum, I don't think you could swing a dead cat without hitting a Glock armorer anywhere in the country.
Is the firing pin channel clean and dry? I've stripped 3 new Glocks in recent weeks, right out of the box, which had a lot of oil covering the firing pin spacer sleeve and the walls of the firing pin channel. You should've seen the look on the fellow's face when I suggested he let me check his new pistol's firing pin channel before he started carrying it, and he argued that Glocks were intended to "be used right out of the box" and didn't need to be checked. Yeah, right. His firing pin channel and spacer sleeve looked like it should've had a dipstick installed to read the high oil level.
S&B ammunition may be bargain priced, but yours isn't the first instance where someone's reported an alleged primer which failed to ignite. Of course, it can happen with ammunition other than S&B, too.
If you change the weight/resistance of the firing pin spring you may introduce a variance in the intended operation and functioning of the pistol. For example, I once came across a Glock whose recoil spring seemed to have become weakened to the point where pulling the trigger, and compressing the firing pin spring, actually resulted in the recoil spring compressing ... and allowing the slide to be pulled slightly out of battery before the firing pin was released. Hmmmmm ...
Do you suppose it might theoretically be possible to have the same thing occur ... sooner, at any rate ... if you installed a heavier firing pin spring which over-powered the recoil spring? I'm also not a fan installing heavier recoil springs in many pistols, especially in Glocks, because that can potentially affect the functioning regarding timing issues, as well as affecting grip stability concerns during recoil timing.
If you're knowledgeable of these things ... don't know you, of course ... and you're bound and determined to do this without having it checked out with a Glock armorer ... here's a website for Wolff Springmakers.
There are links to many websites which post detailed instructions on disassembling Glock pistols. Try GlockTalk for some references. http://glocktalk.com/
There's even an interesting book available ... sometimes in limited quantities, it seems ... from Lone Wolf Distributors, called the Complete Glock Reference Guide. I'm not recommending it, mind you, but it contains some detailed information ... http://www.lonewolfdist.com/products.asp?prod=13
As a Glock armorer I wouldn't install anything other than a stock firing pin spring.
If you're connected with any sort of L/E agency you can schedule yourself to attend one of the field armorer's courses Glock puts on. They're probably the simplest course of their kind being offered, and they're good folks.
I'd also try some different ammunition.
Just my thoughts. Don't claim to have the answer.
Congrats on the G36, by the way.
|10-09-2004, 04:46 PM||#3|
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Thanks for the info. I noticed I was having some light strikes on the primer, that is what made me want to change the spring. I have 3 other glock and haven't had a problem. Also I shoot the same ammo with my 1911's without a problem. That is another reason for my thinking of a slightly heavier spring form Wolff.
How do I take the slide plate off to check to see if all is OK? I have never taken a Glock apart any further than needs to be cleaned. I am machanically inclined, can disassemble/assemble a 1911 without a problem. With that being said, I won't take a firearm apart just to see if I can. Only if necessary (if it aint broke, don't fix it rule) I will venture into the delicate workings of a firearm.
The range I go to used to have a Glock armorer, but he went elsewhere.
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|10-09-2004, 06:22 PM||#5|
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Fort Bragg
first of all it's not all that hard. second you don't need to seek out a glock armorer or be one yourself for that matter. remove the slide from the frame take a glock dissassembly tool or a nail punch, if you look toward the rear of the slide there is a small area where you can see the striker, below the striker contact point is a small shroud depress this dooing so will take th pressure off of the tail cap (the small cover at the back of the slide) slide this cover off and ease pressure off of the striker spring. pull the striker out spring and all. and you can also remove the extractor and safety plunger. now you can change the spring.
a couple of points:
IMO if your going to change the spring due to FTFs i would reccomend a lightning strike light weight titanium striker and a wolff spring i've done this to all my glocks and never had a problem.
one of the best things about glocks is that you don't need to be a gunsmith to work on them or for the most part even modify them i do all my own work action jobs grip mods sight installs etc. they are great guns and very forgiving.
|10-09-2004, 07:14 PM||#6|
Join Date: Apr 2001
I'd clean out the striker channel first and de-gunk everything and put the orginal parts back in a see what happens.
Maybe while you've got the striker out measure it or compare the length to another,,,,"just in case",,,,just to make sure it isn't a little short.
I'm certainly no expert, but could an irregular chamber cause an problems? For instance if the chamber was a bit long,,,,similar issue to running .40 ammo in a 10 mm.....
Just some thoughts.
|10-10-2004, 02:30 PM||#8|
Join Date: Sep 2003
Just remember tht you are compressing this sprong when you pull the trigger, so going with a havier one will give a heavier trigger pull. As a glock armorer I would recomend against doing this, and go with the earlier suggestion to make sure the firing pin channel is nice and clean. Remember that no oil goes in there on a glock, and make sure that when you clean no extra slovent gets into the channel from any where. We get guns during our dept PM's that have so much gunk in the channel that the firing pin plunger is stuck in the up position.
|10-13-2004, 09:22 AM||#9|
Join Date: Aug 2004
Just a vote supporting the solid posts in favor of checking some basic things before swapping parts, particularly for non-stock, particularly fastbolt and jasonj. (Fastbolt: thanks for the explanation of what that furry thing was the other day that went whizzing by my head....) :lol:
Not to suggest that MP1SG is doing this, but I too have seen occasional problems like this when, despite all advice to the contrary, folks think the hole in the slide next to the pickup rail is to be treated like a grease zirk. Horrible things happen. :roll:
MP1SG: Please let us know how it goes, as I'm sure there are those who've put alot of S&B ammo downrange successfully.
|10-13-2004, 01:15 PM||#10|
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
I hope to get back to the range in the next week or so and try some different ammo. Also, I may be in a minority by saying I like my guns just the way they made them, well maybe except for the grips.
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