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Old 02-12-2012, 05:33 AM   #1
mlg
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Browning HI Power trigger reset

Have done as much research has possible and would like to ask how do you improve the trigger reset. I have read several email bullets advising to bend the trigger return spring at the half loop. Can some explain how to do this and how much do you bend, towards the trigger or bend it up towards the slide. When looking at the front of the trigger return spring it rests on the frame probably 1/32 in front of the space where the trigger is removed. Thanks in advance and I appreciate your explaining the process.
 
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:07 AM   #2
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Just want to welcome to the forum, mig. I have NO INFO regarding your issue. One of our resident BHP experts like Bob Reed should be along soon to help you out.....
 
Old 02-12-2012, 08:16 AM   #3
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I don't have a direct answer for you, however, I do have a couple of tid-bits to pass along. There is an extra power spring available that has 3 coils instead of 2.

Wolff Trigger Spring Browning Hi-Power Extra Power

The trigger reset seems to be worse after removal of the magazine safety -- I am not fond of removing this safety.

I will follow this thread as I have a couple of FEG HP35 clones and always would like to know more.

With best regards,

Ray
 
Old 02-12-2012, 01:26 PM   #4
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Hello,

First, let me say that I don't condone bending or cutting springs - but, I also don't care for the aftermarket springs that's available for The High Power.

So, with that being said, I've resorted to adjusting the front bend on a mandrel in order to slightly reduce the radius in the loop and bring the radius on around further, this also makes the front leg of the spring slightly longer (the end that works off the frame) - but I've mainly just had to adjust the spring on a few HPs that needed it after removing the disconnect. Like the ones mentioned in Post 7 via. the link Question about trigger reset spring - 1911Forum
 
Old 02-13-2012, 07:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymond759 View Post
There is an extra power spring available that has 3 coils instead of 2.
Hello Ray,

With all due respect sir - the original 2 coil spring is stronger than the 3 coil spring, and FN used the 2 coil spring until they introduced the un-need firing pin block in the late 80s. Then, FN went to the lighter weight 3 coil spring in order to keep the pull down because they added a sear lever spring that kept the paddle-end (firing pin block portion) of the sear lever blocking the firing pin until the trigger was pressed.

The reason the two coil spring was stronger, is because they were made from larger diameter wire. The number of coils in this case actually has nothing to do with the strength of the spring, and the reason the current spring has three coils instead of two, is too simply take up the extra side-to-side space that was created by using a smaller diameter wire for the current trigger spring. The space I'm talking about is where the spring set's in it's channel between the sides of the trigger, and the coils purpose is simply to create an attachment point for the trigger spring pin.

All that being said, I really wish that FN would have just stayed with the original two coil spring - because it does offer a more positive feel and a slightly quicker return. However, I do like the addition of the sear lever spring and believe that The High Power should have had it from the beginning because, it saves some wear on the contact area where the lever contacts the sear and the spring keeps the end of the sear lever up in it's channel and prevents it from peening the rear of the frame.
 
Old 02-14-2012, 03:49 AM   #6
mlg
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Browning Reset

Just wanted to say thank Bob for the guidance. I was able to improve my Hi Power reset by bending the front loop down and it really assisted a lot. Cylinder and Slide advised of this old trick as well. Just for everyones info this has the two coil spring which I recommend, not the three coil which I tried and actually made the reset worse. Thanks again
 
Old 02-14-2012, 04:00 AM   #7
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Glad things worked out for you mig. There ain't too many people that know their way around the BHP as well as Bob does. FORTUNATELY, he's one of us..........
 
Old 02-14-2012, 04:57 AM   #8
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Dear Bob Reed:

Thank you for your respect and gentle correction. I am here to learn and you've enabled me to do so.

I miss Steven Camp, especially with BHP questions.

Respectfully,

Ray
 
Old 02-14-2012, 01:57 PM   #9
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Thanks Ray - I'm glad you didn't take me the wrong way.

I sure miss ole Steve too, and I think about him on a daily basis.

Thanks again Ray
 
Old 12-18-2014, 08:40 AM   #10
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trigger reset experiment

Saw this old post a few years ago, and decided to do some experimentation. I've had some luck experimenting with adjusting the trigger reset.

But first, I wanted to separate some of the elements that may be lumped into trigger reset in sequence:
Trigger reset feel (click): indicates when trigger is reset after firing, and ready for pull
Trigger reset distance: distance fro "trigger stop" to "trigger reset and ready to pull"


Trigger reset distance:
I applied a small weld to the rear of the sear lever. The weld has to clear the firing pin, thus only reside in the sear lever channel. The height of the weld was filed down until the slide cycled without obstruction, and there were no problems with the hammer remaining cocked after the slide cycles. Filed down some more for additional clearance between the sear lever and the contact point on the hammer. This reduces the distance from trigger break to trigger reset. Ideally I would like to install a small setscrew on the sear lever (with threadlocker) to allow some adjustability to fine-tune the reset distance for any wear in the system).

Trigger reset feel ("click"):
As mentioned by Bob Reed, using the 2-coil trigger spring produces a more noticeable reset. the reset noise/click happens when the trigger elver is moving downwards. the click happens once the trigger lever is sprung rearwards after the trigger lever clears the sear lever. Anything you can do to make the trigger lever's swing backwards smooth and snappy will help (polishing the outboard surface of the trigger elver in contact with the channel in the frame, keeping the channel in the frame clean, etc. Some minor bending of the trigger spring near the trigger pivot pin to apply more force at the trigger lever also helps - more force - more snap - more click. I believe this is the same modification as described by MLG's second post. For reference, my BHP has the two coil trigger spring (original 3 coil was removed), and a sear lever spring (for sear levers with firing pin block).

Trigger stop:
Even with the reset short, I found that the trigger has significant movement rewards - trigger break to trigger stop. this additional trigger movement after trigger break can be reduced by reducing the length of the trigger lever where it contacts the sear lever.Little bit at a time. A little bit of movement front trigger break to trigger stop is desirable to allow for any component wear. removing too much material from the trigger lever will result in the hammer not firing (due to the sear level not articulating enough, and thus the sear not articulating enough). Important note: this adjustment shifts the trigger break and trigger reset rewards of the trigger travel, and thus increases the initial take-up distance. Ideally, if there were some material in the front have of the trigger for adding a trigger stop setscrew... this would be nice

Trigger Force between reset and break:
The springs that contribute to this force are:
Mag-safety spring (some)
Trigger Spring (some)
Sear Lever Spring (minuscule)
Sear Spring (some)
Hammer Spring (some)
Friction of parts moving relative to frame & slide (minuscule)
friction between sear and hammer contact surface (some)
ramp angle between sear and hammer contact surface (some)
mag-safety friction to magazine (some)
What I learned - the spring rates from the factory work well together as a system, it is not worth compromising the system level reliability for a "lighter trigger". For example, reducing the sear spring force will reduce the hammer's ability to stay cocked during slide cycling. Recoiled and firing pin springs should be replaced as a set. Most valuable lesson - As long as the force is predictable/smooth, I don't mind the standard pull forces. Most gains are in the significant frictional contribution of the sear-to-hammer contact surface. any roughness here will contribute to un-smoothness of the trigger break. I sent my fame assembly to bill springer (triggerwork.net) as I do not have the proper fixtures to polish the contact surfaces while maintaining the correct ramp/break angle of the sear-to-hammer contact surface.

Side note - there is an inverse balance between the recoil spring and the hammer spring - need to understand this relationship - more work to do.

Trigger initial take-up:
I haven't found any desire to reduce this distance. the initial take-up is light and smooth (without the mag safety).

I'm curious how re-installing the magazine safety will affect the trigger pull force smoothness.. will try without polishing the follower and magazine first, then polishing follower, and finally polishing magazine contact area.

Prost!

Last edited by coffeebreak101; 12-18-2014 at 01:13 PM.
 
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