Which grip safety for TLE II?

jmichael · 05-18-2003, 02:33 AM

I am considering replacing the MIM manufactured grip safety on my TLE II.

I would like to do so without any further alteration to the pistol frame.

I would like to know if anyone has done this and which safety they found to fit the frame config. of the Kimber. They have obviously contoured their frame but for which one other than theirs?

Thanks in advance for any info.

Dane Burns · 05-19-2003, 07:31 PM

"I would like to do so without any further alteration to the pistol frame."

There is no other grip safety that will fit correctly without altering the frame. For the Kimber Series II guns any Series 70 style grip safety that will go on a .25 radius cut will fit, as will a Wilson. But all take further fitting by someone who knows what they are doing to fit and function correctly.

MIM is an excelelnt process to build any number of gun parts...a grip safety being one of the easiest and best applications for the process. Never heard of a grip safety breaking...MIM, cast (which most are) or anything else. MIM is a lot stronger than cast BTW.

Kruzr · 05-19-2003, 10:06 PM

Only GS I've heard of breaking was just recently (with pics.)
http://www.1911forum.com/forums/showthr ... adid=48385

jmichael · 05-20-2003, 03:25 AM

Dane, thanks for the reply but...the above thread from the 1911 Forum is EXACTLY why I want to replace the MIM made grip safety on my NEW TLE II.

Quote:

But all take further fitting by someone who knows what they are doing to fit and function correctly.

That's what I figured.

I think I'll replace ALL the MIM parts while I'm at it.

Dane Burns · 05-20-2003, 06:36 AM

"I think I'll replace ALL the MIM parts while I'm at it."

Every time a MIM thread comes up I have a good laugh. Do a search on this forum and you'll find that MIM is indeed second only to milled steel parts for durability. A few MIM problems have surfaced over time.

I started a few of those threads here and have tried to keep track of most of the feed back listed on Kimber guns.

The only problem seen with MIM is improper heat treat or poor original design.

When the heat treat is off, parts are brittle and crack. I have seen the firing pin safeties, the thumb safeties, the bushings and now one.......sorry was that one total grip bushing (two thumb safeties, and one firing pin safety, and 2 bushings) break in the last 7 years. Add in one bad barrel on a compact too....but that is a forged part that is then machined. Not much failaure from all the Kimber guns being shot today.

I am a master Kimber dealer and I have worked on as many Kimbers as anyone I suspect, short of the Kimber shop.

I sell some of the finiest parts yet available for a 1911 and generally use them in my own work. But asked which gun I would buy and actually use in stock form with no additional work ...........it would be a Kimber and I have no burning desire to change a thing in them. YMMV but that is mine.

But if you are replacing all the MIM on a Kimber, that woud include the thumb safety, grip safety, slide stop, hammer, sear, disconnector, mag release, bushing, firing pin stop and sights. The weakest part of a Kimber is the cheap plastic main spring housings which I have seen dozens break. So might as well do that part too.

Compare that to a Wilson Combat CQB? MIM slide stop, hammmer, sear, mag release....but you get the idea.

jmichael · 05-20-2003, 06:59 AM

Dane,

Again, thanks for the reply and I appreciate your position on MIM parts.

I'm still not sure I trust them. I want to have the pistol HC'd by Tripp but don't want to waste the $'s having parts plated that may break, who knows when.

Quote:

The weakest part of a Kimber is the cheap plastic main spring housings which I have seen dozens break. So might as well do that part too.

That was the first thing I did when I got the pistol, even before it went to the range. I used a 25 year old Colt flat MSH. :wink:

Dane Burns · 05-20-2003, 07:14 AM

Hope it helps. Mind you I have no problem replacing the MIM...just like to let folks know that it isn't the high priority some would lead you to believe.

"I want to have the pistol HC'd"

Worth noting that hydrogen embrittlement is a problem with small parts when you chrome. I wouldn't chrome the firing pin stop (more MIM on a Kimber) from any gun, the firing pin, the barrel, link, pin or barrel bushing.

yokyto · 05-21-2003, 07:35 AM

Dear Mr. Burns
I have heard that better way to improve reliability of Kimber Custom II is to change extractor for Caspian HD and to change plastic MSH for some composite or steel MSH. I would like to know your opinion. Pls. I am not expert.

Dane Burns · 05-21-2003, 08:44 AM

There are better parts available than what goes into any production gun.
Best way to improve the performance of a Kimber IMO is get the operator to shoot more.

05-18-2003, 02:33 AM	#1
jmichael Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: FL Posts: 111	Which grip safety for TLE II? I am considering replacing the MIM manufactured grip safety on my TLE II. I would like to do so without any further alteration to the pistol frame. I would like to know if anyone has done this and which safety they found to fit the frame config. of the Kimber. They have obviously contoured their frame but for which one other than theirs? Thanks in advance for any info.

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05-19-2003, 07:31 PM	#2
Dane Burns Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Issaquah, WA Posts: 3,830	"I would like to do so without any further alteration to the pistol frame." There is no other grip safety that will fit correctly without altering the frame. For the Kimber Series II guns any Series 70 style grip safety that will go on a .25 radius cut will fit, as will a Wilson. But all take further fitting by someone who knows what they are doing to fit and function correctly. MIM is an excelelnt process to build any number of gun parts...a grip safety being one of the easiest and best applications for the process. Never heard of a grip safety breaking...MIM, cast (which most are) or anything else. MIM is a lot stronger than cast BTW.

05-19-2003, 10:06 PM	#3
Kruzr Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 83	Only GS I've heard of breaking was just recently (with pics.) http://www.1911forum.com/forums/showthr ... adid=48385

05-20-2003, 06:36 AM	#5
Dane Burns Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Issaquah, WA Posts: 3,830	"I think I'll replace ALL the MIM parts while I'm at it." Every time a MIM thread comes up I have a good laugh. Do a search on this forum and you'll find that MIM is indeed second only to milled steel parts for durability. A few MIM problems have surfaced over time. I started a few of those threads here and have tried to keep track of most of the feed back listed on Kimber guns. The only problem seen with MIM is improper heat treat or poor original design. When the heat treat is off, parts are brittle and crack. I have seen the firing pin safeties, the thumb safeties, the bushings and now one.......sorry was that one total grip bushing (two thumb safeties, and one firing pin safety, and 2 bushings) break in the last 7 years. Add in one bad barrel on a compact too....but that is a forged part that is then machined. Not much failaure from all the Kimber guns being shot today. I am a master Kimber dealer and I have worked on as many Kimbers as anyone I suspect, short of the Kimber shop. I sell some of the finiest parts yet available for a 1911 and generally use them in my own work. But asked which gun I would buy and actually use in stock form with no additional work ...........it would be a Kimber and I have no burning desire to change a thing in them. YMMV but that is mine. But if you are replacing all the MIM on a Kimber, that woud include the thumb safety, grip safety, slide stop, hammer, sear, disconnector, mag release, bushing, firing pin stop and sights. The weakest part of a Kimber is the cheap plastic main spring housings which I have seen dozens break. So might as well do that part too. Compare that to a Wilson Combat CQB? MIM slide stop, hammmer, sear, mag release....but you get the idea.

05-20-2003, 07:14 AM	#7
Dane Burns Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Issaquah, WA Posts: 3,830	Hope it helps. Mind you I have no problem replacing the MIM...just like to let folks know that it isn't the high priority some would lead you to believe. "I want to have the pistol HC'd" Worth noting that hydrogen embrittlement is a problem with small parts when you chrome. I wouldn't chrome the firing pin stop (more MIM on a Kimber) from any gun, the firing pin, the barrel, link, pin or barrel bushing.

05-21-2003, 07:35 AM	#8
yokyto Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Czech Republic Posts: 3	Dear Mr. Burns I have heard that better way to improve reliability of Kimber Custom II is to change extractor for Caspian HD and to change plastic MSH for some composite or steel MSH. I would like to know your opinion. Pls. I am not expert.

05-21-2003, 08:44 AM	#9
Dane Burns Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Issaquah, WA Posts: 3,830	There are better parts available than what goes into any production gun. Best way to improve the performance of a Kimber IMO is get the operator to shoot more.