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Old 04-09-2011, 08:54 PM   #1
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Norinco Project 1911A1 NP29 9mm

Hi all,
this is my first post pretty much.
I have a stock Norinco NP29. I bought it new and its fired under 50 rounds. All I've done is put a new set of grips on it and have gotten 2 wilson combat 10 round mags for it that seem to run well. The Plan is to strip it back dehorn it and do whatever is necessary to make a nice pistol for the range that looks good. I want to do everything myself and don't want to send it to a smith at all. I was thinking about stippling the front strap.
Any thoughts suggestions?

Cheers

Matt
 
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Old 04-09-2011, 09:22 PM   #2
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I say go for it. Stippling is much harder to do than some think though. I know it's a common belief that because it's not a uniform pattern that it's easier to do than say, checkering, but I beg to differ. It's VERY hard to get right, IMO. I tend to believe, personally that it's easier to invest in some good tools and guides and actually pull off a checkering job than a stipple. Some of the other patterns seem insanely difficult, ie scalloping/scaling, but have yet to try them. I'm all in on the do-it-yourself idea though. Never know, if it turns out right, you may get a few buddies that are willing to pay you to do it. That's never a bad thing!
 
Old 04-09-2011, 10:57 PM   #3
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Cheers for that link on the other post Alabaster. Yeah Im not expecting the Stippling to be easy. Might have to practice on some bar stock or something first. Yeah wouldn't mind getting it down pat. Nobody does it in my area, if I can reliably get a sweet finish I know a fair amount of people who would want it done.
I once saw a jig somewhere on another forum for cutting snake scales on the front strap. Now that was impressive! Wish I knew where I could buy one of those jigs but can't find any for sale.
Going to start with stippling first then complete strip of the slide and frame. Dehorn and polish. Im sure I don't need to say this but Norinco's surface finish is poor to say the least and there are machining marks all over it.
Not sure what Im going to do with the internals. The trigger definately needs work.
Here's a before picture..

 
Old 04-10-2011, 06:57 AM   #4
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Point/Counterpoint...the essence of the gun boards.

Personally, I don't much care for texturizing the front straps. Even 30 LPI checkering makes it hard to do fine readjustments on my grip if I don't happen to get it just right as I grab for the gun in a hurry. As one wise old pistolero put it:

"Frontstrap checkering helps you keep a bad grip."

Just my 2% of a buck...
 
Old 04-10-2011, 07:45 AM   #5
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Try to experiment with more expedient front strap treatments.

Easiest and cheapest is skate board tape. Try just an inch long strip under the ring and little fingers.

Quick and dirty and very effective are the rubber wrap around grips by Pachmyer. Remove them every month or so to keep rust from forming under the grips.

Cut up a bicycle inner tube into 1/2 inch sections. Use these 'rubber bands' around the bottom of your grip to get a good surface. Unless you want to disable your grip safety, keep them away from that area.

I stippled one of my Norks with the tungsten carbide core of a .50 cal Armor piercing round. Mine is very pretty and works well but it took me over a year. Thank goodness I don't depend on eating by being a gunsmith.

Your nork is a fine gun, but check back with JohnnyT in about a couple of thousand rounds to get some guidelines about lug wear. I lost one of mine to the dreaded lug wear and had to hire a local gun plumber to fit a new barrel. Only drawback I can think of to the Nork. Fine guns.

One of my many fantasies is that I live long enough to wear out a couple of them. Maybe a grandson will get interested.
 
Old 04-10-2011, 05:09 PM   #6
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Kewl grips, man. Don't see the snakeskin thing all that often. The recesses of the cocking serrations say a bit about what to expect in the way of machining marks, I guess.

I never saw a "budget priced" 1911 that didn't need a lil love in the trigger/fire control dept. I guess that's a big part of the fun of it all. As opposed to lug sizing and barrel fit, I mean. Few fellas really enjoy that part of it, I think. I know it's more important over the long haul, but there's no "instant gratification", if ya know what I mean.

Cohee, you don't happen to have any pics of yours that you did with the 50BMG core, do ya?
 
Old 04-10-2011, 06:46 PM   #7
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A professional 'smiff' friend beat me out of it last year.

It looks just like a .30 cal. boattail bullet except the whole thing is made of tungsten carbide with a sharp point. The .50 cal round has a soft copper jacket that sheds quickly when it encountes resistance leaving the core to penetrate the target.

When I was a teenager, I scored a tone of Cal .30 black tip AP rounds from a national guardsman who had a jeep trailer load of it stolen at summer camp.

As I recall, he had a M-70 Winchester. He did not want to shoot the AP rounds because they were "too hard" and would wear his barrel out quickly.

I shot up the whole trailer load in a 1917 Eddystone and never put any discernable wear on the barrel from shooting the soft copper jacketed APs. As near as I can figure, the AP jacket was softer that the copper jackets on Remington Soft Point hunting loads. Being a dumb kid that can play dumb works out well sometimes.

If you can find a .30 or .50 AP round, peel the jacket off and use the core. Start a cut with a hacksaw or file, then use pliers to get the jacket off.

Just a word or caution. Do not try this if the bullet tip has any color that black to indicate AP. Hacksawing an armor piercing incendary or armor piercing tracer is best left to other folks.

Lacking any exotic ordnance, you can file a sharp pyramid point on a small center punch and do a pretty good job stippling. You just have to resharpen the point every now and then.
 
Old 04-10-2011, 08:28 PM   #8
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cohee....I can seewhere that would work better if You didn'i pull the bullet from the Ma Duece case , don't You think that MaMa Duece case would make a good punch handle , Brass Case Head would be easier on the Hammer Head faces of Your hammer....just an ides....Hell I know,....I'll ask John T what He thanks

Wild Bill
 
Old 04-10-2011, 09:42 PM   #9
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Thanks for the tips fellas,
yeah I have a few of these and Im getting another in a week or 2, so putting some stippling on it dosent really bother me. If I don't like it I'll just sell it or keep it for testing.
Has anyone heard of tiger tooth stippling? I heard its particularly aggressive, I was just interested to see if anyones ever seen it up close or knows how to do it.
Yeah Alabaster, I kinda wish they came without cocking serrations so I could just cut my own, I prefer them much finer.
Im after a 9mm stainless steel barrel bushing for this guy. Anyone know where I can get one that won't require fitting? I was told that the barrel bushing was the only thing that should be caliber specific to a 9mm 1911A1 is this correct?
Gotta decide on a finish. Im thinking hot caustic with potassium Nitrate and lye because I have the chemicals handy and have done a few knives for mates in the past that have turned out OK. Been trying to get a parking solution down pat but just can't seem to get the results Im after with off the shelf substitutes. Might have to just lash out and order the pure chemicals from a chem supplier I think.
If your wondering the grips are by a company called Rio Grande. Im their Australian distributer and have been pretty happy with them so far. They are located in the US and sell direct to the public over there. There the best grips of their type I've seen. The finish is 2mm thick and they do a heap of cool designs check em out Rio Grande Custom Grips
Tell em their Australian distributer put you onto them so they think Im awesome.lol
 
Old 04-11-2011, 09:21 AM   #10
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Those grips look decent so far. The Taurus 1911 grips are different? It looks like it's just cuz they're ambi's, no? They're the same as other ambi cut grips, right?

I looked up tiger tooth stippling, but it seems there are a couple "opinions" of what it is. I saw some that looked like tiger's teeth, and some that looked like it was mauled by tiger's teeth. Dunno what to tell ya there.

Don't know about parts interchangeability between calibers either, but it seems to me that there has to be more than just the bushing that's different. Bushin, barrel, recoil spring, magazines, and who knows what else. Gotta be more than just the bushin tho, I think.
 
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