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| | #1 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 3
| I know I know its a West Hurley but still I have an AO 1911 question
Just picked up for 125.00 from a very disappointed prev owner. I figure even if I have a paper weight, at least it will look nice. Truthfully, I want to give it a chance though and having a project gun is something Im looking forward to ![]() Ran some 230 grain ball per some suggestions found on the net and it seems to feed, still plan on picking up some of the newer mags though, the problem Im having is failure to fully eject. Im getting some weird jams that require the mag to be dropped and the expended casing to be manuvered out through the mag well. Any ideas as to where to start would be appreciated. Also, I could use some opinions on a 1911 repair manual for this baby. Any ideas? By way of some backround, I am not a complete newb I just have never had this kind of problem with either of the Sigs I carry on the job. Thanks you all for any and all pointers, tips, & suggestions! |
| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Louisiana
Posts: 526
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Get the two Kuhnhausen 1911 books...Brownells has them....AGI dvds on buildin 1911s are good....Get a set of drawins for the 1911 Wild Bill |
| | #3 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Huntsville, Ala.
Posts: 414
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Extractor, ejector, breechface, chamber, recoil spring to start.
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: North Carolina
Posts: 632
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Look at the butt-end of the extractor. Unless I miss my guess, the flat side sits about a 16th of an inch too far starboard. I'm also gonna bet that most, if not all of your ejection jams happen on the last round, and the case is crushed between the slide and the barrel hood. If these things describe your issues...the only cure is a new slide. Thompson Auto Ordnance showed this particular problem in about one in five pistols. |
| | #5 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 3
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Thank you for all the suggestions and ideas. JohnntT, thankfully I have had no crushing of the casing and the jams occur with no rhyme or reason. Seems to be the first 2 or 3 rounds are safe but after that . . . tada jam. I will start at the extractor. Last night I pulled the slide and slid an expended casing in under the extractor and then a live round the same way. I was able to get both rounds "shook" loose but man I had to shake, what seemed to me, really hard. Im going to order the manual for the knowledge, give her a good cleaning, and start with a more scientific approach to finding the possible cause. It will prolly be next week sometime at the earliest before I get to the range but I will try and get some pics and go from there. Again, thank you to all who jumped into the mystery and to anyone else, more opinions are always welcome. |
| | #6 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: North Carolina
Posts: 632
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It can happen at any point in the magazine, and it doesn't always include crushing the case. Look at the alignment with the slide. |
| | #7 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 3
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^ I will do that, thank you.
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| | #8 |
| Junior Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Oregon
Posts: 13
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Get the Kuhnhausen 1911 books. They are worth their weight in gold, particularly when you consider the costs of replacing MIM and cast parts with tool steel. Remember, always modify the cheapest part. You will soon know how true that is when you start fitting parts. The 1911 is a wonderful pistol, and there are volumes written about it, GI Field manuals, legends, lore, and B.S. for you to sort through. But the Kuhnhausen books are the most important first step. Get some Wilson magazines. Price/quality can't be beat. Also, RetDAC offers some good advice. The first $125 was well spent, and you will soon know more about the 1911 platform than you could imagine. |
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