dbl_axe

Why is it so damn difficult to disassemble the Mark II? I love using it; it's a dream to shoot, but when it comes time to clean it, I feel like throwing it in the dumpster! Does anyone one out there have any tips or tricks to taking this thing apart? I don't like the idea of getting rid of any of my guns, but I'm on the verge of selling it and buying something less annoying to maintain. Someone please help!

dbl_axe

CoolhandLuke

I feel the same way about reassembleing it. The only time I get bother taking it apart is when I remember that I'll need to put it back together.

What specifically is your complaint? The part with the paper clip or the part with the hammer?

dbl_axe

I can't get the retaining pin that holds the receiver to the frame out. I tried tapping the top with a mallet, but it won't budge. I'm about to try using some channel locks to see if I can push the pin through that way.

CoolhandLuke

You've been able to do it before, right?

Joe Ford

I have never disassembled one but i put my budies back together after he did an yes it was a pain, Brownell's sells a parts kit that swaps out some of the hammer parts and supposedly eliminates the problem you might want to check it out.

DISTINGUISHED PISTOL SHOT

When I went to Ruger armorer school, at their plant in NH. They agreed that the dis-assembly was a PITA to perform, and they explained that they get them sent back in the mail, to re-assemble, from time to time. Yes, there is a kit that speeds and simplifies the process, I forget who makes it...but I've always wanted one.

RobertOh

Do what I did. Trade it off for a P89 9mm. :lol:

one eye joe

Install a Majestic Arms Ltd, "Ruger .22 Auto Pistol Speed Strip Kit". Costs around $49 Easy to install. Allows bolt to slide out of the back of the receIver by taking out an Allen screw. Makes cleaning from the breech end a snap ! I've used them in 2 MK II's for 20 yrs w/o a single problem...........

Free Trapper

Over the years, and unfortunately so, the Mark series have become "less" through Ruger's careless manufacturing and finishing however, they remain a fine piece if the small PITA assembly problems are "fixed". My latest mark III is the heavy, tapered target barrel model in blue steel and I ran into the difficulty of disassembly 0n it! I have not tried the part mentioned above, but am diagnosing the trouble and working on a fix with original equipment. When I am certain that I have solved this problem, I will share it here for folks interested in maintaining thier own firearms.

I long ago foolishly allowed a friend to talk me out of my mark I Target of 1976 vintage, a great shooter that one! The mark IIs have been excellent shooters and I currently have the SS mark II std in 6 inch with original fixed sights. I was able to fit a front sight hood to reduce glare and found it to work very well, I can bring pics of that if anyone is interested.

This latest mark III Target I have is the result of letting my daughter "talk" me out of a SS mark III slabside Target model! It came apart and went back together easily but my new mark III is a work in progress.

Please don't give up on these guns gentlement! they are well worth the trouble of tuning them into submission!!!

SaxonViolence

I have a Mark I and a Bull-Barreled Mark II.

I've worked on many Guns in my life--Graduate of APG'S Small Arms Repair School.....

And I've never taken either of my Ruger .22s apart.

It may sound Cowardly, but I'm afraid to...

Saxon Violence

petek

I shoot a MK II. I did some action work to it and it is a real pain to work on. I haven't taken it apart to clean it in quite a while. I did replace the firing pin and action spring last year. Seems to have corrected some misfire problems I was having.

Get a patch worm or boresnake, small brush etc. Compressed air will help. There is no need to field strip it unless it starts giving problems.

Enjoy shooting it.

valvestem

I have a Mark I Ruger Standard. And I had a he!! of a time getting it broken down recently to clean. I ended up using a brass drift to pop the ball end of the bolt retaining pin free. When I got it out completely I saw rust in the swivel joints which did not help. Then I could not get it back in properly, but managed after I read the instructions (and whoever reads those?). I have not handled the pistol for many years and it sat on a closet shelf neglected all that time. It is all back together now, and I would not hesitate to take it down again for future cleaning, now I know how it goes.

Alabaster

Oh, man. I hate it. I think that's why God created spray cleaners and Dunk-Kits. I've NEVER had such a headache in all my years. Speed strip kit or sprays/dunk tanks. Otherwise you may seek out professional help, either a gunsmith or Dr. Jennifer Melfi. I love my Standard, though. It has to be my all-time favorite 22 for many reasons.

retDAC

I never had that much trouble. Use a small flat tip screwdriver to raise the lever.

petek

Bore snake or patchworm. I can take mine apart without problems. Putting it back together is another story. It may go together easily or it can be a bear.
I don't take it apart very often. I use the patch worm and a brush and plastic picks to clean it. Last time I tore it down was to replace the firing pin and the recoil spring. If not kept clean I get misfires, anything between the bolt and the bbl face and it clicks, so pay attn. to these areas.

Alabaster

+1, really. I never had issues with taking it apart. Like anything else, it seems. Getting 'em back together is a BEAR!

thecarfarmer

I had a hard time with my '57 Standard, the first time. The youtube "" video showed how to manipulate the hammer and spring strut.

What isn't easy to see on the vid is the little end of the strut ("dingle"), which has to fit into the pocket of the little piston that's in that retaining clip assembly which fits in the back of the frame. After watching the video (a few times...), I got the flashlight out, and got a real good look at how those parts worked.

You can tell it's going together right when you have rotated the pistol to point up, pressed the trigger, felt the 'dingle' pop into place, and then feel a small spring-loaded resistance to pushing the retaining clip that last 1/8" or so. I've found that (at least on my guns), if I don't feel that spring load, I've got to point the barrel down, press the trigger to move the hammer, then back up, press the trigger... then it'll work.

The other problems I've run into were a low round count original red-logo (1949? '50? it was old) Standard that might have never been apart. First off, the part of that retaining clip assembly that goes thru the top of the upper receiver and bolt was in there SO (expletive deleted) TIGHT that it took several minutes of misery. Then, I found that the recoil spring doesn't have the little guide rod peened over on both ends like the later guns. All the other ones I've seen, I could pop that recoil spring ass'y out as a unit - that early model launched the spring and its retainer.

Something to be aware of if you ever strip the bolt on a real early one.

And I ran across another where the end of that retaining pin was real tight where it goes through the end of the recoil spring assembly. Took a minute to put it together too.

Hope this helps.

-Bill

retDAC

[QUOTE=thecarfarmer;143547]... original red-logo (1949? '50? it was old) .../QUOTE]

Bill Ruger Sr. changed the color from red to black in 1951 after Alex Sturm died.

Alexander McCormick Sturm - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

thecarfarmer

^^^thanks! I knew it was pretty early when they made that change.

I used to own pistol #24xx that shoulda' been a '51 (according to Ruger's site) - it had black eagles on the grips (I remember thinking at the time that she shoulda' been a red eagle gun when I looked her # up). But, who knows what her history had been, huh?

-Bill

retDAC

Change may have been done in the middle of the model year.

As to the serial # ranges on the Ruger website, various things sometimes happen to serial #s and/or numbered frames at factories. Not just Ruger either. The ranges are approximations, so for an individual gun you would have to contact Ruger directly.

thecarfarmer

True that!

(and really common, if you work on older Harleys...)