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Old 07-27-2010, 12:19 PM   #1
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Blackhawk problems

PLEASE HELP
I recently obtained in trade an old model 1959 Ruger Blackhawk flattop 357 and I'm experiencing some problems.

Could someone PLEASE tell me how to change the firing pin rebound spring?
I've done some gunsmithing on rifles and semiauto pistols but never revolvers.
Thanks,
Craig
Blackhawk problem - Ruger Forum
 
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Old 07-27-2010, 06:57 PM   #2
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If the chamber(s) aren't rough and if the shoulders are proper depth for .357, then I'd try some different ammo.
 
Old 07-29-2010, 03:21 PM   #3
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Has it been converted to the transfer bar ignition? If it has, check the see if the transfer bar is hanging up on the firing pin. If it's not, check the base pin to see if the tit is worn and not pushing the transfer bar back far enough to clear. Check also to see if the base pin is moving forward when the gun recoils.

If all that is in working order, check to see if the bolt is dropping in time to release the cylinder when the hammer starts cocking.

Last edited by JohnnyT; 07-29-2010 at 03:23 PM.
 
Old 07-29-2010, 03:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retDAC View Post
If the chamber(s) aren't rough and if the shoulders are proper depth for .357, then I'd try some different ammo.
I found out that the spring is fine. I was using Winchester white box 357JHP.
I will try some different 357 ammo. The 38 special wadcutter reloads I tried worked.
 
Old 07-29-2010, 03:26 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyT View Post
Has it been converted to the transfer bar ignition? If it has, check the see if the transfer bar is hanging up on the firing pin. If it's not, check the base pin to see if the tit is worn and not pushing the transfer bar back far enough to clear.

If all that is in working order, check to see if the bolt is dropping in time to release the cylinder when the hammer starts cocking.
How do I find out if it has been converted?
 
Old 07-29-2010, 04:01 PM   #6
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Cock the hammer and look to see if thre's a thin plate that covers about half the firing pin.

The quick-check is to lower the hammer and look between the rear of the cylinder and the recoil shield. If you can see the tip of the firing pin protruding, it hasn't been converted. If you see it...it has.
 
Old 07-29-2010, 05:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyT View Post
Cock the hammer and look to see if thre's a thin plate that covers about half the firing pin.

The quick-check is to lower the hammer and look between the rear of the cylinder and the recoil shield. If you can see the tip of the firing pin protruding, it hasn't been converted. If you see it...it has.
No, it HASN'T been converted. This may sound like a really stupid question but what or where is the base pin? If it is what I think it is....Is it what holds the Cylinder in?

Last edited by badmojoman; 07-29-2010 at 05:37 PM.
 
Old 07-30-2010, 02:27 PM   #8
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Yep. It's the axle that the cylinder spins on.

Since it hasn't been converted, the next place to look is the cylinder stop bolt. It's that little half moon-shaped protrusion that moves up and down in the bottom of the frame window and engages the half moon keyway cuts in the cylinder. If the bolt doesn't drop...or doesn't drop in time to let the cylinder turn when you thumb the hammer back...the whole works comes to a halt. You can watch it by holding the gun sideways and cocking the hammer while you look closely between the bottom of the cylinder and frame. It should drop as soon as the hammer starts to move.
 
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