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Old 03-09-2011, 10:24 AM   #11
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Is it just lead buildup from not cleaning the area? Shooting lead reloads and having an off center alignment will cause "shaving". Leaving a lot of lead residue and causing binding. It may be the heat and lead causing it after shooting. And maybe acouple of charge holes not in alignement? Remember, I'm no smith. Just a tinkerer. And has been pointed out before-been wrong too.
 
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:04 AM   #12
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Sarge --

Hey, I've been wrong before, too! In fact, at one time I thought I'd made every mistake in the world -- but I was wrong about that.

The lead buildup was just enough to make the contact marks less obvious. It's not a lead-shaving problem.

Anyway, here's the deal now: I called Ruger, described the problem, and they said, "Send it in!" So the solution to the problem is underway...

BTW, Sarge, this is off topic, but speaking of shaving lead, I have a S&W Model 28 Highway Patrolman that shaved lead, and I found out the hard way. It spit a little piece back that sailed in just under the edge of my shooting glasses and wacked me an inch or so below my eye. Raised a little blood blister, and actually gave me a black eye.

Even so, I love the Model 28 - I have three of them now!

Thanks to everybody who helped on this thread!

JP
 
Old 03-09-2011, 11:14 AM   #13
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Good call, Ret. Rugers have a reputation for close barrel/cylinder gaps. If the gap is cattywampus, and closer on one side than on the other, it can cause cylinder binding, especially if just a tiny bit of lead is deposited on the face. Heat would contribute to it, but if it goes away after cooling...I suspect that the offending dab of lead is simply shearing off.

What many people don't realize about Ruger revolvers is that their forcing cones and B/C gaps are optimized for jacketed bullets. Most work well enough with lead, but once in a while...a problem materializes. If it was mine, I'd just slide a smooth mill file across the barrel face to true it up and maybe give it another though or so. Deburr lightly, and you should be good to go.
 
 
Old 03-09-2011, 11:49 AM   #14
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Shaving Lead! Oh Man!!

Try standing next to a bunch of officers on a line shooting old out of spec revolvers. I can't remember how many times lead was spit in my face from the guy next to me.
 
Old 03-09-2011, 08:53 PM   #15
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Correct Kelly. Flashgap is aka the barrel-cylinder gap.

Usually the cylinder face, barrel face, or both are not quite square. Rarely the frame is warped or hole for barrel not true. Possibly something else is out of spec allowing the cylinder to move too far forward.

JohnnyT and Sarge405 covered the other possibilities.

It used to be .004" to .008" was considered normal with .006" being optimum. IIRC at least one mfr. (S&W?) now considers .012" to be acceptable. In contrast, Freedom Arms uses .001" on their high $ SAs. Or did anyway.

If small enough and in good condition, you can use sparkplug feeler gauges.

Don't be surprised if the gun comes back from Ruger not properly fixed. Has happened to me. Not just Ruger either.
 
Old 03-10-2011, 08:24 AM   #16
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Quote:
Don't be surprised if the gun comes back from Ruger not properly fixed. Has happened to me. Not just Ruger either.
Ouch. I won't be surprised, but I sure will be disappointed in Ruger!

I don't have much choice, though, because I don't have the skills or tools to address this kind of problem.

Let's see how Ruger does by me. I'll tell the world!

Thanks for your input, too, retDAC.

JP
 
Old 06-05-2011, 02:47 PM   #17
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There was a time , in the days of Bill, when Ruger Customer Service was legendary. People ROUTINELY wrote to gun rags with stories of rehabs and rebuilds on weapons returned to Ruger, at NO COST to the customer. Those days of standing behind your product and pride, are obviously gone......
 
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