Need to Thread

[goldeagle]

I had a gunsmith at one time thread a barrel for me. He claimed a 'device' could attach to the lathe and he never had to remove barrel from receiver. Said device came from Brownells. This was on a clone HK 91. And he did a good job! I could never find out what the device was and now I would like to have a buddy thread a barrel for me without removing it from the action. Any suggestions? Thanks!

[dfariswheel]

I'm not sure what he was talking about, but there are threading kits that can thread a barrel by hand, without a lathe.

These kits have a threading die and a "TAT" or Thread Alignment Tool.
The "tool" is a stud that's a snug fit in the barrel. It's screwed into the die and act as an alignment device to keep the die square with the barrel.
A lot of people have used these kits to thread AK barrels and un-threaded AR barrels made during the Assault Weapons Ban.

All you need is the kit, a die handle, and some tapping and threading fluid from the hardware store.

These kits are very simple to use and you have to work at it to botch it up.
They are rather expensive for a one-time job.
They come in different threads, and with TAT's for different caliber weapons.
The HK 91 uses a 15x1 thread.

Here's some info:

Threading Kits

Threading instructions:
Threading Guide

Brownells Search : Search Results for "dies" - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

[goldeagle]

Thanks. Do I need threading fluid or oil will work?

[dfariswheel]

Threading fluid works far better.
No worry, it's a couple of dollars at most at most hardware stores.

A few pointers:
WARNING, the dies cuts off chips that are like tiny razors. They'll stick into your shoe soles and will cut a floor to ribbons when you walk across it.
Step on one with a bare foot and it'll cut you to ribbons.

Before threading, stuff a couple of pieces of paper towel about 3 inches down the bore. This will prevent chips from dropping into the action.

Make a large aluminum foil cone and tape it around the barrel, lower down. This makes a chip catcher.

Use PLENTY of threading fluid.

Back the die off so it cuts shallower threads the first pass, then tighten it to finish the cut. Die handles have adjustments to close the die and cut deeper threads, or open the die and cut shallower threads.

To thread up close to a sight, flip the die over after the threads are cut. One side usually is beveled and the other side has no bevel so it will thread up flush against a sight or other barrel fixture.

Rotate the die until you feel it tighten, then back it off to clear the chips. You thread by rotating forward a partial turn then backing off, then forward again.
Take it slow.

[goldeagle]

Originally Posted by dfariswheel

Threading fluid works far better.
No worry, it's a couple of dollars at most at most hardware stores.

A few pointers:
WARNING, the dies cuts off chips that are like tiny razors. They'll stick into your shoe soles and will cut a floor to ribbons when you walk across it.
Step on one with a bare foot and it'll cut you to ribbons.

Before threading, stuff a couple of pieces of paper towel about 3 inches down the bore. This will prevent chips from dropping into the action.

Make a large aluminum foil cone and tape it around the barrel, lower down. This makes a chip catcher.

Use PLENTY of threading fluid.

Back the die off so it cuts shallower threads the first pass, then tighten it to finish the cut. Die handles have adjustments to close the die and cut deeper threads, or open the die and cut shallower threads.

To thread up close to a sight, flip the die over after the threads are cut. One side usually is beveled and the other side has no bevel so it will thread up flush against a sight or other barrel fixture.

Rotate the die until you feel it tighten, then back it off to clear the chips. You thread by rotating forward a partial turn then backing off, then forward again.
Take it slow.

Will this work on tapered Ruger rifle barrels? Thanks!

[dfariswheel]

"Probably".

Since a tapered rifle barrel usually has a very shallow taper at the muzzle end, a threading kit should work.
You're only issue will be in finding a threading die that will fit the diameter of the barrel at the muzzle and a TAT that will fit the bore.

[goldeagle]

Doesn't look like Precise Innovations can fill orders at this time? See 'please note' Gun Accessories


Anyone else have something reliable??? Thanks! Again.

[dfariswheel]

Depending on what you need, Midway sell kits, and Brownell's does or did:

Taps & Dies | Gunsmithing Tools | Gunsmithing & Gun Parts |

They also sell a kit for the AK that does left hand threads.

[goldeagle]

Thanks so much dfariswheel! For now am looking to thread above mentioned Rugers. Hoping to get T.A.T. (Threading Alignment Tool) with kits. Will check out your links!

[IPSC]

Sorry for coming in late on this thread... but I have a related question.

I am facing this situation. I would like to thread a heavy-barrel rifle barrel, .308 cal. The muzzle-end is something like 0.815-0.825" diameter. Obviously, with a heavy-barrel taper, it is yet a bit thicker as you move closer to the receiver.

I want to thread the end of the barrel to 5/8"-24. However, if you compare the thread size to the barrel muzzle OD size, the amount of material to remove is about 0.200" ( diametral measurement... = 0.100" radial).

5/8" = 0.625
OD = 0.825

diametral difference= 0.200.... radial difference is 0.100"

Is this too much metal to remove with a home-kit / TAT / threading kit ???? Or..must the barrel *first* be turned-down before a home-brew threading kit for 5/8-24 can be used?

[dfariswheel]

You'll probably have to turn it down a little.

Threading dies open up by screwing a screw on the side IN. This forces the die to spread.
You can then start threads with a shallow cut to more easily form the threads, then close the die and complete the threads to full depth.

You might get the die started on the barrel but I don't think it'd work out with that much difference in size.

[IPSC]

I thought that might be the case.... this will be a problem for me as I'd like to do the barrel threading myself, manually, with a TAT.

The barrel has not yet been threaded, and the fellow making the muzzle brake for me, can do other thread sizes, he simply suggested 5/8-24.

For the same barrel, what if we went 11/16 - 24 instead ??? ... Would that help enough for me to do it this way?

[dfariswheel]

That's going to depend on what threads he can do and whether you can find a die that size.

I'd suggest you talk to the guy making the muzzle attachment. If he's up to custom making it, he should be able to give you better advice on what you can use on your barrel size.

[IPSC]

I was hoping for more of a generic answer....like.... how much "meat" can be handled (radially), by a cutting die. In other words, it's not so much a question of thread size to use, it's more a question of the radial distance "difference" between the starting diameter of the "work" you will be threading, and the thread size you will use. And what a threading die "usually" can get away with.

With that said, a 5/8"-24 thread starting with a .815 barrel results in a radial "cut" of about 0.100"...apparently too much.

Going up to a 11/16"-24 doesn't help too much either.....

Going up further to (say) 13/16"-24,...results in a "cut" amount that mimics what a lot of my AK-47 friends do, to thread a 14 x 1 mm thread onto a .570" ( or so) barrel with no issue...it seems a cut size along these lines works.

So, was hoping to hear some suggestions from a machinist's point of view of how much cut depth is acceptable for thread dies.

[dfariswheel]

I'm not a machinist since most machine work was handled by someone else.

Other than general knowledge and doing revolver barrel work, I didn't spend a lot of time at a full size lathe.
For this, you'll need to talk to a real machinist.

[IPSC]

Fair enough....thanks all !!!

[guncrank1]

Sorry late thread
And it is year old but if you are threading for anything except a suppressor, a die and guide it ok
A can requires a metal lathe.

[retDAC]

Thanks Claude.