beachjumper

Is it possible to replace the red ramp front sight on this revolver to something more "visible"?
Thanks
Joe

Any Caliber

Joe, I assume you are talking about replacing the insert with a different color. If that is the case, yes it is possible. You can do it or have a gunsmith do it. Basically what you do is clean out the old insert and either pour in a new colored filler (dam up the sides of the sight first and set the sight level so filler flows flush to the top edge of the sight) or press in a new solid filler and file to fit. Either way, Good Luck!

beachjumper

I was thinking some thing like gold bead and fiber optic or HI-VIZ. But I e-mailed S&W and was informed that I'm stuck with the ramp type sight.
Thanks for your reply any caliber.
Joe

256M-S

Beachjumper,

Try Jack Weigand. He and his son were courteous and efficient in filling a very small order of a replacement blade (I needed a different height from what I had originally ordered). I like his ramp with the detachable blades and have it mounted on several pieces whose barrels I had shortened.

It will require machining but he has red insert, gold bead, and fiber optic options in which you have stated an interest.

Personally, I'm happy with the red insert and don't trust the durability of the fiber optics, but it is an option.

Just do a Google for WEIGAND and check his website.

My gunsmith has mounted a brass bead installed on a shelf in the front sight blade of a short carbine and it's surely visible and seems to minimize the round bead's tendency to shoot away from the light. That being said, the current Browning carbines I've had the sights changed on have solid brass blades built in the old Redfield Sourdough configuration and they are really visible and quick to pickup as that style always has been. Haven't used such on a handgun, but see no reason that shouldn't work well.

I guess I'm behind the times, but I see nothing wrong with a solid black Patridge sight either, for that matter, though, and even my aging eyes still pick it up well if it's wide enough. Seems to me that the biggest problem with fast pick up of the foresight is that all too many weapons have a foresight that's too narrow and a rear sight notch that is also too narrow to permit adequate light on either side of the blade when it's centered in the notch. The fine sights are fine for traditional bullseye shooting, but are limited when speed is significant and the target is grosser than that unforgiving black bull.

Good luck on your search.

rhm0351

I recommend Weigand Combat's interchangeable front sight setup, too. I've got one on a 3" Ruger Redhawk. Works great, looks original, and was very reasonably priced.
-RHM

http://www.jackweigand.com/interfs.html

RamJet

Paint that sucker.

beachjumper

Thanks for all your replies. I will look at Weigand. I guess my problem is that I'm not use to using sights on handgungs. I've been using my father's Remington Rand he left me about 35 years ago for home defense. I used the same type of pistol when I was in the Navy[1959-1969]. I bought a Kimber to replace the Remington and the S&W for home defense. It's like learning to shoot all over again. Maybe I'm expecting too much from these "modern" firearms. I still can't get the double action down pat. I think I can spit more accurately than shoot the S&W. Sorry for the rambling.
Joe

BigBoar

deleted

256M-S

BeachJumper,

If you're trying to learn to shoot DA, get yourself some good snap caps, make sure the weapon is unloaded, load the snap caps, make sure the weapon is unloaded and is chambered only with snap caps, get a proper grip on the weapon, assume a balanced shooting stance, select a target in a harmless direction, and practice slowly squeezing the trigger as smoothly and non-stop as possible while watching your sights for misalignment as the hammer impacts. Starting point is a proper grip and stance like with all the martial arts. Other skills are basic shooting skills complicated by the lack of a shoulder stock and the shorter sighting radius.

When you get the hang of snapping in with good sight alignment on the target, put a quarter on the end of the muzzle, and continue a smooth, non-stop press while watching your sights until you can snap in the weapon without dislodging the coin and still keep your sights aligned on target......THEN bust some caps.

Helps to do this with someone who KNOWS the basics and can watch you and ensure you're adopting a good grip and stance, pulling the trigger straight back, not touching the frame with your trigger finger, breathing correctly, etc. When you get the basics down pat, speed WILL follow.

About a million or ten million repetitions ought to do it......a few less maybe if you've really got the basics of marksmanship down pat and really have a good coach who is a fair bit better than you are.

Problem with pistol shooting is that it takes a fair amount of discipline to get good and most aren't willing to make the effort---especially given the rather reduced accuracy standards that many of the gun games and modern production handguns have encouraged. Plus, most of us lie to ourselves about our shooting skills and that really slows development...

Hope this is helpful.

beachjumper

Thanks for the advise. I certainly agree with you about practicing. I think part of the probem is that the frame on the S&W is a lttle too large for my hands for me to be consistant with a proper trigger pull. I also have that problem with the Kimber which has about a 1/2" longer trigger reach than my Remington. I plan to get the "small hands" package done by kimber once I get the break-in rounds{400-500] fired. The only thing I can do with the S&W is to trade it in for a Model 60 if I want to stay with a S&W .357. S&W says you can dry fire their revolvers with out damage to the firing pin or spring so I've been dry firing without snap caps or dummy rounds. I have to use an "H" grip with my right hand so that the pad on my trigger finger is directly on center with the trigger using a two handed stance. I'm not interested in bull's eye shooting so I usually practice at about 7-15 yards or closer if I'm allowed to at the range I'm shooting at. I do much better with the Remington than the other two firearms from about 15 yards in. At 25 yards or longer the Kimber is more accurate since the Remington's sights are practically nonexistant with my 64 year old eyes.
Once again thank you all for your suggestions.
Joe

256M-S

Beachjumper,

Don't mean to bore you with the obvious, but the L frame grip is same as the K and it fits a fair number of small hands. What you may want to try is a smaller set of grips than you are currently using...even the magnas with a something like a TylerT grip adapter. Any grip with filler on the back of the frame will surely make the frame larger for small hands. My wife does well with the Hoague grips.

I should have said that the basics of stance and grip are more important with learning effective DA fire rather than sounding like I was emphasizing a training regimen. When you indicated the problems you were having with DA shooting, it seemed like a good thing to emphasize whether you're shooting a 3 meters or 25. DA shooting is clearly a more difficult exercise to put all the basics of stance, grip, sight alignment, trigger squeeze, recoil management together than single action fire.

Good luck.

beachjumper

Thanks for that input 256m-s. I thought the S&W 60 was a small framed revolver. I also was thinking that putting on some Pachmayr Compac grips might help with the 686. I've been shooting the Remington for so long that shooting DA is very difficult for me to pick up on. I have gained a lot more respect for good DA revolver shooters now that I tried it.
Joe

256M-S

BeachJumper,

The Smith 60 is a J-frame and is their smallest current frame. I was just pointing out that if the grip size on your L-frame seems too large, it's only the traditional K-frame size, and it's worth going to a smaller set of grips like the magnas or the Hogues rather than downsizing the gun. If you think you have problems with good DA shooting with an L-frame, it'll be compounded with a J!

The difference between a SA auto with a decent trigger and a DA revolver is a huge difference and the reason I suggested going back to the basics and doing some dry firing to smooth your ability to use the long, heavier, DA pull. The coin on the muzzle trick is an old one that really shows up your problems with using a DA revolver and is a good way to demonstrate that you have it right. Actually, when you get used to it, for some of us, it's easier to hit with a DA revolver than a SA with something like aerial targets or rolling cans. Something to do with the longer smooth action just tying your physical senses into the gun better than the quick, crisp SA trigger pull. Especially for fast repeat shots. In any event it's a fun and useful skill to develop....but 'hit do take time'...

Again, good luck with whatever course you decide upon.

beachjumper

I looked at the grips on the 686 and they are Hogue monogrips square butt rubber. The backstrap is exposed so I don't blieve smaller grips will help shorten the trigger reach. But you made a good point by saying going down to a J- frame would make a DA harder to shoot. Since I got the 686 for home defense, I thought I could shoot one-handed for close in shooting as I can with the Remington. However, it looks like I'll train using two hands where an "h" grip with the trigger hand is recommended by some. By the time I get the Kimber broken in and modified, I should be able to handle the DA fairly well. I can then retire the Remington and leave it for my great grandchildren to celebrate the 100 anniversaries of VE day and VJ day.

256M-S

See if you can find a pair of straight magna grips and perhaps add a Tyler T grip adapter. If that doesn't work, go to a gunshop and handle a K-frame, like the Model 19 or 66 and see how that feels to your trigger reach. I personally like the fixed sight 65's but nothing wrong with going to a 38 in lieu of a 357 either.

M. Hall

Remember that the Hogues' have a palm swell that will slightly shorten your trigger reach....
If you go for the Magnas this goes away....you can also get wood Hogues' and do a little
sanding.

beachjumper

Do any of you think the Pachmayr Compac grips would help?

recon5

You can use a Hiviz fiber optic front sight if your gun is of later manufacture with the interchangable pinned front sight. No gunsmithing required.
https://www.hivizsights.com/cart/sho...cts.asp?page=2

beachjumper

Thanks for all your suggestions.

Bennon

It's a dang shame you can't find one of the 686's with the Hi-Viz front sight.I have always hated the way they look on a revolver but ended up with hi-viz sights on a 686+ with a 5 in. barrel.For double action shooting it is great for my old eyes!

recon5

There is one out now, 5" barrel and Hiviz front sight. Order nr 164284.
It has a heavy barrel but no underlug. Very good looking piece.

one eye joe

Two words of caution with the Hi-Viz sights Beachjumper. They pick up ambient light and focus it down their length where it appears as an illuminated dot. In an intruder in a darkened house situation there is DIM TO NONE ambient light so Hi-Viz sights will NOT assist you as they won't be activated. ALSO, they are rounded in profile and are difficult to align with repeatability in the square notch of the rear sight for paper punching--AND ONCE AGAIN--you will not see a glowing dot in the darkened port of an indoor range. Just so you know what to expect......