Plunger tube assembly falls out...

[ChrisDM]

Help! I recently bought my first 1911, a Kimber Eclipse Custom, for a 460 Rowland conversion project. The project has been a failure so far, but that's another topic. One of the problems was the 460 knocked my plunger tube assembly clean off... So for now I've decided to convert it back to 45. So I ordered a Wilson Plunger tube and spring assembly, and reassembled it (I lost the original Kimber plunger tube when it was blown off). FYI I'm no gunsmith, but I thought I was handy enough to get it back to 45 configuration. But on its first outing after the reassembly, the new Wilson plunger tube assembly came clean off again, after the 5th round.

So how do I get it to stay? Can I loctite it or something, or should I try another Kimber tube assembly?

Thanks in advance,

Chris

[ChrisDM]

Guys, I did some research after posting this originally and found the Brownells plunger tube refit kit, as well as some successful reports using Loctite, although that is certainly a less elegant (but a lot more affordable) workaround.

[Bill Caldwell]

Buy the tools from Brownells....Restakein' plunger tubes is one of the easier repairs to 1911s

I have always considered the 460 Rowland a joke....40 SUPER hits harder,shoots flater, needs no compensater

A properly installed plunger tube won't fall off a 1911 in 40 Super in several thousand rounds...one properely installed on a Kimber shouldn't either , reguardless of caliber

40 Super can be loaded to outrun the 10 mm by 300fps and more....I've ran 135 gr bullets 1800 fps

Bill Caldwell

[ChrisDM]

Thanks Bill. FYI Midway has a $30 Strobel Plunger sinking kit that is reportedly just as effective as the Brownells kit, for $70 less.

Also, I don't know what's funny about a 230 grain bullet with 1000ft/lbs of energy, although 40 super certainly gets it there too... But for those of us that don't reload unfortunately its not an option.

[Bill Caldwell]

Chris....Granted I have never owned a 460 Rowland nor have I worked with one extensively, a few Hands I know of in this area bought into the hype and bought the conversion kits, then showed up here at the shop needin' help to make them run. As the kits needed to be made in a one size fits all, all that I seen were made to the loosest of the 1911 specs, all barrels were a very poor fit both in hood width and hood length, the barrel feet needed to be welded up and recut.

The BIG KICKER was in chronographin' the loads, no loads got close to the 1400fps you've got to have to get the 1000 ft/lbs of muzzle energy.....1100 fps was as fast as I seen....I would be interested in seein' load data to get the 1400fps.

I don't remember if the 460 used small primers or large....in a 1911 primers will always limit how hot You can load, I could never see a good reason for the compensator, several good reasons for not havein' one

Probably a few weeks into 1912 some hand was cuttin' off 30/06 to .898 in", reamin' them to hold the G. I. Ball, and playin' with a 45 Super.....We did in the 1950s/1960s, no chronos back then so I don't know how fast They ran, If I wanted a HOT 45 in a 1911 I'd go with a 45 Super, Nothin' extra to buy, just cut .243,.270, .308, .30/06 brass to .898, ream for a 45 cal. bullet and probably out run the 460 Rowland, as You know the comp on the Rowland did not add to the bullet speed and makes the 1911 a lot less handy

Bill Caldwell

[4thHorseman]

Interesting read.
I would like to say this that I am somewhat curious about myself.
I recently replaced a Wilson plug on my WIlson "Bill Wison Carry" with with a Kimber plug. This particular design has a reverse plug. The Wison pistol tore the living crap out of the Kimber plug in a short time. It ate the shoulders all up on the reverse plug from Kimber. Leading me to believe they are different somehow in dimentions. I know this may not relate directly to your pistol, but something you might check anyway to be sure.
JFYI.