Scottly

Ok, I tried searching for this topic and didn't come up with much.

I wish to fit a bull barrel to a 5" 1911. I have in my hands a KKM Precision .40 W/N ramped bull barrel. The hood length and width have been machined to fit the breach and the lugs will engage. The barrel will not engage lugs more than .015, unless it is forced (sprung) upward. So, the barrel must be relieved at the forward lockup point to allow full lug engagement .

Here's my question.

After generous use of Dychem, I see a contact point at the 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions (on the bottom half). I do not see any upper contact with the slide.

The barrel muzzle OD measures .696 (as it came from KKM), and the slide bore ID at the muzzle measures .699.

It seems that this barrel needs to be clearanced on the bottom so it can tilt upward....or does it?? I do not see any contact with the slide at top.

What am I missing here? Is there any where I can read some good instruction on bull barrel installs?

For the record, I am not a 'smith. I am a hobbiest. I have installed 10 other bushing-type barrels successfully, including the Kart easy-fit (which ain't easy).

Please help steer me so I don't screw this up.

judge sam

From what I've been able to find, you're on the right track. You just keep relieving contacts until the barrel can go into battery. This assumes properly fitted lugs. What type of slide are you using?

Scottly

Update: I went with a Bar Sto barrel. KKM's barrel top profile required quite a bit of material to be removed for proper lock-up at the front. I wasn't comfortable with the results, nor was I comfortable trying again with another KKM.

I went with Bar Sto because of the time they spent to help me understand what I was doing. I appreciate their response, and would buy their barrels again anytime...really great folks.

judge sam

I would like to know how you fit the Bar Sto. It would help me with a future project.

Scottly

Hood fit was standard practice. The front lock-up area is the edge of the "profile" that is machined into the barrel. Just rearward of the muzzle, you can see that ridge going down toward the bottom of the barrel. That ridge is what locks up against the slide. Paint that area with dykem and check for contact. After you fit the hood and have engagement with the upper lugs, remove enough material along the forward contact point of the barrel....just enough...to eliminate any "springing" of the barrel that will occur when upper lugs are fully engaged. You'll only need to remove about .002 - .004, if at all.

Scottly

Gooooooooooooooooood Morning Viet Nam!!!!

retDAC

Whatever, whereever, he/she/it is gone.