|02-23-2010, 08:27 PM||#1|
Join Date: Feb 2010
I have a BHP that was worked on by a highly reputable and renowned gunsmith. I won't mention names - not necessary. One of the things he did was install a new hammer and sear set. The problem is that the hammer follows the slide on recoil during firing. It doesn't do it when the gun is hand cycled. I took out the new sear and put the original sear back in. Same problem. I suspect the sear spring may have been re-curved (it is something the late Austin Behlert used to do to get a lighter trigger pull). I think that the sear spring is the problem. What are your thoughts?
I forgot to mention that a new safety was put in at the same time.
Last edited by Brian Tunstall; 02-24-2010 at 10:59 AM.
|06-11-2012, 11:32 PM||#2|
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Central Ohio
A lot late advice
In my experience with a couple of FEG Hi-powers and a 50's FN, the sear spring being too relaxed will cause this. Do you know how to remove the sear spring? If so, adjust the spring to be more "positive" against the sear. It doesn't take much movement of the sear to let the hammer fall to the half cock notch.
I hope you've fixed this by now.
|06-12-2012, 01:34 AM||#3|
Join Date: May 2011
IMHO, I would have gone back to the smith and pointed out the problem.
Did he/she do anything to the hammer? Like recut the sear catch?
He/she should be allowed to fix the problem first. By replacing the sear, the smith could say that the problem was created by you.
Then you get in a pi$$ing contest.
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|11-15-2013, 10:25 AM||#4|
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: south csrolina
Interesting no one has relied. Here I am a year later with similar experience. I did my own trigger job. Put New wolf spring package in. Went to lightest hammer spring/stock recoil. Resembled and tested; after firing approx 20 rounds I got one double hit. Figured I screwed it up so ordered new sear/hammer combo from cyl &side. Nice parts. Same problem. Changed back to original hammer spring. Same. Tweeked sear spring. Some help. Went to 18.5 recoil . Put about 60 round through it with no problems so far.
Not sure why a stronger recoil spring would help and why I should have to increase sear spring tension. gun worked flawlessly before.
Last edited by fheckro; 11-15-2013 at 01:18 PM.
|11-15-2013, 02:40 PM||#5|
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: New Port Richey
Those C&S parts? They will drop into many guns, but not all.
My pistols have the sear springs set at 12oz on the disconnect leg and 24oz total, 17lb main spring = 2.75lb trigger pull. I have no issues.
|11-16-2013, 03:50 AM||#6|
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: North Carolina
Never ceases to amaze me at the people who will take a perfectly functioning pistol and start dinkin' around with it...and it seems that trigger action is one of the most common things to get dinked, and then they come onto these boards lookin' for somebody to help'em unfuck the thing.
The High Power is not a target pistol. It was...by design and intent...a sidearm for a military entity. It was meant to shoot holes in people...not to punch out little groups in paper at unrealistic distances.
The same can be said of the 1911. It's just that, because of an active marksmanship program, a lot of time and effort has been spent in turning it into what it was never meant to be, and...although there has been great success in the endeavor...it does sometimes come with its share of issues.
I, for one, have never been bothered by the stock High Power trigger. I suppose that has something to do with the fact that I cut my teeth on stock USGI 1911s and 1911A1s, and learned to manage without a 56-ounce glass rod trigger. I also learned to accept the fact that the thing is a broadhead ax...not a surgeon's scalpel.
Big smiles! Nothin' but love!
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