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Old 05-14-2010, 08:57 AM   #1
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Wide trigger

I have removed the mag disconnect. I have a C&S wide trigger does the trigger give me anything I do not already have. And how big of a pain is it to change. Thanks Gus
 
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Old 05-14-2010, 12:28 PM   #2
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It'd be helpful if we knew what kinda gun you're talkin' about...
 
Old 05-14-2010, 04:12 PM   #3
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Probably a HI POWER , AKA P 35....Clues are C&S parts and the Brownin' part of THIS HERE forum.....I really didn't get the question , I don't know what the poster had to start with

Wild Bill
 
 
Old 05-14-2010, 04:25 PM   #4
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Ah! Okay. Didn't see the Browning header. It just showed up as the top thread on the page.

On the assumption that it's a P35 and not a BDA...

Can't really see any sense in installing a wide trigger. It gives the feel of a lighter trigger action by spreading the load on your finger over a wider area, but by itself...that's about it.
 
Old 05-14-2010, 05:16 PM   #5
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C&S wide trigger does help the perceived trigger pull. Go ahead and install it to see for yourself. If you don't like it, you will know how to change it out.
 
Old 05-15-2010, 07:52 PM   #6
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cohee.....How wide is this trigger....I knew a HAND that once upon a time , this Hand had shot on an ALL AIR FORCE pistol team , decided that a big wide trigger shoe would help His shootin' ....went to holster said pistol in the hallway of His home about two a.m.....cocked , thumb safety off , guess triggershoe drug on inside of holster , pistol fired , homemade holster with a metal shroud leather wraped , I guess holster kept the bullet out of His leg , bullet hit the tile and concrete about .001in. from his foot , rickashayed up , hit bottom of antique hall table with antique water basin and pitcher on it.....wood splinters , porcelean glass flyin' all over the place , tears runnin' down both legs , Frau opens the bedroom door scared all to HELL , screamin' , old luger in Her hand....This OLE GAL is a HOLLYROLLER preachers' daughter but She CUSSED Jimmy 'till a DAMM wouldn't have stuck on Him....So point is if this wide trigger looks like a trigger shoe........be carefull

Wild Bill
 
Old 05-16-2010, 01:16 PM   #7
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Negative, about 1/4 wider than the stock trigger. Cylinder and Slide website may have exact width.

Roger your view on Trigger shoes. Great for guns that live in pistol boxes(I guess) but definately not for holsters.
 
Old 05-17-2010, 03:25 AM   #8
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Wide trigger

Sorry I have a stock 40 cal Browning (hence in the browning subforum) so the wide trigger gives a perceived lighter trigger. I have read the "how to change the trigger" but is a pain and do I have to watch out for flying springs and pieces. Thanks Gus
 
Old 05-17-2010, 03:42 AM   #9
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Hello,

With your C&S trigger at rest (fully forward) the top surface of the trigger lever must be just slightly below the top surface of the frame rail. How much below, well that depends on where the user wants his "sweet spot" to be. The FN maintenance manual doesn't give any set amount of distance below the frame rail. However, most FN-Browning High Power's come from the Factory with the top of the lever (when the lever is at the rear of it's slot, in the fire position, but trigger at rest) sitting anywhere from .015-.035 below the top surface of the frame rail. But keep in mind, each pistol is a little different and their set-up & fitted accordingly.

If you ride the trigger between shots, you'll be happier performance wise with a slightly shorter lever. You can get an idea of how short to make the lever if you have another HP to compare it to, or just compare it to how it is/was with the Factory Trigger.

Word of Caution: Don't fully install the trigger axis pin each time between fittings, and Don't shorten the lever so much that the bottom edge of the sear won't fully clear the top surface of the hammer hooks. If your lever is on the short side and you need more clearance, you can gain some clearance (over travel) by removing alittle material from the bottom side of the trigger stop, ie. the arm that extends forward from the trigger. Don't remove so much material that it weakens the arm, instead get yourself a new lever and start over!

Regardless of the trigger lever's height, it's best to have a slight radius on it's top edges, especially the rear edge of it's tip, in other words don't just give your lever a "flat top" and call it good. The slight radius on the rear edge will allow the trigger lever to slip back under the sear lever more smoothly & quicker, especially for those that ride the trigger during rapid fire.

NOTE: The above also applies even if your using the factory trigger. If your disconnect is still in place, you'll need to insert a magazine so the lever will be held to the rear in it's firing position to check the height (trigger must be at rest thow). If you have the grip panels off, you can simply activate the disconnect with your finger tip. Obviously, if your disconnect has been removed the lever will already be at the rear of it's slot.

Always check for adequate over travel anytime you change, replace or alter the lever. Over travel can be checked, by simply pinching the hammer between your thumb & forefinger and moving it slightly pass full cock and while holding it there and looking through the hammer recess in the rear of the slide, press the trigger & notice how high above the hammer hook the sear rises. Of course the slide must be on the frame and you'll need the pistol under good lighting when you do this.
 
Old 05-17-2010, 03:47 AM   #10
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Hello Again, here's the best way to remove the trigger pin on a High Power.

The trigger pin is removed from Right to Left, drive from the ejection port side towards the left.

With the slide off the pistol & the safety on, put some masking tape around the pin in case your brass punch slips and lay the frame on a Brownells #413-001-002 Leather Vise Jaw Pad that's been placed on a Very Solid Surface. The grip area will need to hang over the edge of the work surface in order for the pin area of the frame to lay perfectly flat & solid. Now, put your 1/4" Dia. Brass Punch on the Rounded End thats sticking out past the Right Side of the frame & give it good solid taps with a hammer untill it breaks loose. Once the pin has broken loose, just lay the frame on your bench block or leg and drive the pin out with your 3/32 Pin Punch, it will only be tight for a very short distance.

The leather vise jaw pad will protect the frame & soak up the bounce, it will also allow the pin to sink into it when it breaks loose.

The pin isn't tapered, it's original spec is .117" Dia. from end to end, the hole in the R.H. Side of the frame is under-sized, so be sure to drive the pin out from Right to Left. The current production Matte Finished Trigger Pin's measure .1176" Dia. all the way across.

Oil the trigger pin & frame holes before reinstalling and ONLY install the trigger pin from Left to Right.

Here's a link to the Leather Vise Jaw Pads.
Leather Vise Pads (413-001-002) - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

Note: The leather vise jaw pad mentioned above, is also excellent for laying the trigger on when removing the disconnect pin & trigger spring pin, because the leather soaks up the bounce! And the leather allows the pins to sink into it when they break loose. Once the disconnect pin & trigger spring pin have broken loose, then place the trigger on your Bench Block and finish driving the pin's out.

Also Note: Setting the safety has nothing to do with getting the trigger pin out. I only put the safety on as a precautionary measure to block the sear and prevent the hammer from falling & smashing into the sear-nose, in the event that the sear were to bounce and disengage the hammer hook.
 
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