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Old 09-05-2011, 05:41 PM   #1
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Stuck Trigger Pin. Thoughts?

I can't get my alloy Hi Power's trigger pin to budge. Thoughts?

I'm trying to remove it from right to left i.e. I'm whacking on right side i.e what's pictured. (Pic is not of my HP, but from one on the web).


I've whacked it hard enough to crater the ~1/8" brass punch I was using.The gun was arsenal refinished as per AIM's product description when I bought it from them. Did the refinishing process "seal" the pin, making it particularly hard to remove, or is it usually crazy hard?
 
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Old 09-05-2011, 07:21 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dannix View Post
Did the refinishing process "seal" the pin, making it particularly hard to remove, or is it usually crazy hard?
I know squat about the BHP, but IMHO no pin should require that type of force--as long as you're driving it in the proper direction. We are talkin' a trigger pin here, NOT the pin holdin' together the track of a tank. The refinish may be the culprit....
 
Old 09-05-2011, 07:39 PM   #3
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The usual standard is that pins are driven out from the LEFT side to the right.

Here's how to handle a resistant pin:

Buy some Kroil and apply a good drop on both sides of the pin. Let soak at least overnight.

Get a wood block to support the frame and drill a hole in it that will pass the pin.
Position the frame on the block, left side up, making sure the pin is over the hole.

Make a "starter punch" by cutting a standard punch of to about a 1/2" working length, or flatten the tip of a nail set.
The shorter length punch prevents the punch from flexing or bending and directs all the force to the pin. The nail set won't flex either but make SURE the end is flat AND perfectly true with the body of the punch, not slanted.

Have a buddy help hold the frame if possible. If the frame moves or bounces when struck, the force is dissipated and the pin can deform and lock tighter in place.

Use a medium heavy hammer to drive the pin. Once it's moving, switch to a standard punch to remove it.
 
 
Old 09-06-2011, 01:25 AM   #4
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Hello.

The HP trigger pin should only be removed from Right to Left, drive from the ejection port side towards the left, because the hole in the R.H. Side of the frame is under-sized (that's what retains the pin).

With the slide off the pistol & the safety on, put some masking tape around the pin in case your brass punch slips and lay the frame on a Brownells #413-001-002 Leather Vise Jaw Pad that's been placed on a Very Solid Surface. The grip area will need to hang over the edge of the work surface in order for the pin area of the frame to lay perfectly flat & solid. Now, put your 1/4" Dia. Brass Punch on the Rounded End thats sticking out past the Right Side of the frame and give it good solid hits with a hammer untill it breaks loose. Once the pin has broken loose, then lay the frame on your bench block or across your leg and finish driving the pin out with a 3/32 Pin Punch, it will only be tight for a very short distance.

The leather vise jaw pad will protect the frame & soak up the bounce, it will also allow the pin to sink into it when it breaks loose. So, don't over look this handy leather pad when it comes to breaking pins loose, because it totally eliminates all bounce & vibration and makes the hammer hits dead-solid.

The pin isn't tapered, it's original spec is .117" Dia. all the way across, the hole in the R.H. Side of the frame is under-sized, so be sure to drive the pin out from Right to Left. The current production Matte Finished Trigger Pin's measure .1176" Dia. all the way across.

Oil the trigger pin & frame holes before reinstalling and ONLY install the trigger pin from Left to Right.

Here's a link to the Leather Vise Jaw Pads. LEATHER VISE JAW PADS - Brownells

Note: The leather vise jaw pad mentioned above, is also excellent for laying the trigger on when removing the disconnect pin & trigger spring pin, because the leather soaks up the bounce! And the leather allows the pins to sink into it when they break loose. Once the disconnect pin & trigger spring pin have broken loose, then place the trigger on your Bench Block and finish driving the pins out.

Also Note: Setting the safety has nothing to do with getting the trigger pin out. I put the safety on as a precautionary measure in order to block the sear's movement and prevent the hammer from dropping & smashing into the sear while breaking the trigger pin loose.
 
Old 09-06-2011, 10:14 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one eye joe View Post
I know squat about the BHP, but IMHO no pin should require that type of force--as long as you're driving it in the proper direction. We are talkin' a trigger pin here, NOT the pin holdin' together the track of a tank. The refinish may be the culprit....
I've taken the trigger pin out of several modern BHP's now. The ones finished in that epoxy based flat black (Mark III's) are the worst to get started in my experience. The pins in silver chrome framed BHP's are tons easier.
 
Old 09-06-2011, 11:38 AM   #6
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Like dfariswheel, I am a HUGE fan of Kroil, the oil that creeps. Flood both sides of the pin and let it soak. It borders on miraculous...........
 
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