|10-05-2011, 10:56 AM||#1|
Join Date: Oct 2011
another high power safety
I have read through but nothing else seems right
The gun is an 1981 fn hi-power, with hammer cocked safety on i pull the trigger nothing happens, release trigger and move safety to fire position and the hammer releases.
i took the upper off and with the safety on i can move the sear a little
should the sear engagement with the hammer be sharp or flat? looks like it should be sharp but it's flat.
thank yall for any help
|10-05-2011, 02:28 PM||#2|
Join Date: Jun 2009
Welcome to the forum, mycar. I'll notify one of our members, Bob Reed--a BHP expert, that you need assisstance. I know SQUAT about the BHP, but I know who to ask. Help is on the way......
Last edited by one eye joe; 10-05-2011 at 02:37 PM.
|10-05-2011, 05:00 PM||#3|
Join Date: Oct 2003
It's not uncommon for the sear to slightly raise ~ .005" or so when the trigger is pulled while the safety is engaged - but obviously the hammer shouldn't fall once the safety is disengaged after doing so, and it sounds like your sear is moving more than about .005" and/or the searing surface has been incorrectly cut or the sear and hammer hook is just worn-out.
The sear nose is factory ground 90* degrees to the "flat area" on "top" of the sear and the hammer hook should make full "equal" engagement on the searing surface. The sear nose set's flush, or just slightly below flush with the top of the hammer hook on all Factory High Powers, and it's OK to give the bottom edge of the sear nose a 45* degree bevel, or in other words, break the lower edge at a 45* angle.
Now, "IF" the hammer hook and sear is in good shape and the hammer isn't following the slide when you chamber a round - and the hammer doesn't follow the slide after firing, then you probably just need a new safety because the nub that blocks the sear is worn down. But for no more than a new safety & sear cost from Browning's Parts Department, I'd just order both to ensure a good fit. Also, since your gun has the small single side safety, you can (if you don't want an ambi-safety) just cut the new safety's shaft off at the roll pin hole on the R.H. side and dress the end of the shaft to a nice radius and touch it up with cold blue (that's what I do to all the current factory HP safeties - and it really makes a nice single side safety).
Or, if you want to keep using the safety that came on the gun - you can have the nub built back up and refitted. My friend Steve Camp mentions this approach in the linked article regarding sear movement when the safety is engaged. New Page 1
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|10-06-2011, 05:42 AM||#4|
Join Date: Oct 2011
thanks yall, im not sure if it move's more than .005 but it doesn't click. i will try to measure the movement, would you recommend trying to cut the lower edge at 45 degree's before ordering parts?
would a layer of tape over the safety nub help me in identiying the problem?
|10-06-2011, 03:04 PM||#5|
Join Date: Oct 2003
I only mentioned breaking the lower edge of the sear as in, it's factory ground 90* degrees to the flat - but a relief on the lower edge is acceptable and desirable, but without actually seeing your sear & hammer it's impossible to say whether their worn out or if it's just the safety that needs replaced.
If you're going to work on the gun yourself and need a disassembly guide, Steve Camp offers the best one available and you can order it here Products
|10-08-2011, 05:41 PM||#6|
Join Date: Apr 2006
Sear and hammer hook engagement isues
Is it just when you take the safety off or do you need to try to pull the trigger a couple of times before taking the safety off? I pic of the hammer/sear engagement from the top would help.
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