G17 schuemann barrel - Pistolsmith
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Old 04-13-2011, 07:46 PM   #1
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G17 schuemann barrel

Guys I got a G17 in the other day that won't shoot. It has a 4 hole shcu compbarrel on it. The barrel is in a Caspian SS slide. The main issue seems to be a lack of slide travel upon firing. Does anybody have experiance with a simmilar set-up. I have tried lightening up the recoil spring,but its not helping. There is no dragging or hang-ups in its travel. it dissasembles correctly. All parts visually appear in spec. The fit of the comp to slide looks good. nothing tight,nothing to loose. Anybody?
 
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Old 04-13-2011, 07:49 PM   #2
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:32 PM   #3
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Why not contact Schuemann?

Looked at their website and only barrels for 1911 types are mentioned. Searches for Glock and G17 come back blank.

Does your G17 cycle every round normally by hand?
 
 
Old 04-14-2011, 04:19 AM   #4
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I don't own a Glunk , unless I find one really cheap I'm not likely to own one so I don't know that I can help You with one , Lt Tommy Bolton is an ACE on Glunks , if He sees this thread He'll get it runnin'.....And You really haven't put forth enough info on what the problem is ...."Won't Shoot"???? If We were talkin' 1911s , I'd need more to go on...

Wild Bill
 
Old 04-14-2011, 02:06 PM   #5
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G17 Shuemann barrel

Load mag,insert,rack slide, align sights, pull trigger,bang,nothing ejects. With a full strenght recoil spring the fired round stays in the chamber. The empty brass that is. Operate slide by hand to feed in another live round off the top and throw out the empty,pull trigger,bang. No ejection. Start cutting coils off the recoil spring, after you get to the point that you are almost but not quite uncompressed it will start to cycle and feed. Not 100%. Obviously does not like a full mag as there is too much pressure on the loaded round. Hand cycle it down to about # 13 and it will run through the rest of the magazine,usually. is the comp bleeding off too much pressure?I have no experience with the Hybrid- port compensators by always eager to learn. So far I can vouch for the integrity of the following assymblies, trigger and transfer bar,ejector and block,firing pin and spring, the trigger plunger and spring.replaced the recoil spring with a new one and even tried a new rod that was the non-captured style. I considered myself a pretty fair Glock tech up to this point,this one has defineatly got me stumped.I have also tried 115,124,147,and 147 subsonic to no avail.
 
Old 04-14-2011, 11:02 PM   #6
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Borrow a reliable G17 in original configuration. Compare what pressure it takes to slowly rack the slide and chamber rounds. Is yours just as smooth?

Does your barrel move up and down at the same angle?

Is there peening or any other unusual wear mark(s) on your barrel?

Is your barrel identical on the underside to the stock barrel in every respect?

Is your locking block identical to the stock one?

If all that checks, seems the only thing left is too much venting.
 
Old 04-15-2011, 09:55 AM   #7
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I'm new here, and no expert. Having said that, everything I've read about USPSA Open Division Glocks (Glocks with compensators) indicates that they work best with 11 lb recoil springs.

Be careful when using these reduced recoil springs, you may also want/need to install a reduced striker spring. With the standard striker spring it is possible to overpower a reduced power recoil spring and pull the slide out of battery when pulling the trigger.

They (compensators) also are designed for, and work best with heavy loads; what USPSA calls Major Power Factor.

That usually equals a 125 grain bullet at around 1350 fps.

In USPSA that's called "Nine Major". Some self defense loads make that much power, but generally speaking you won't find that velocity without reloading.

You're bleeding a ton of the gas out the ports, thus less is available to work the gun.

Glocks are hugely tuneable, and easy to work on, as long as you understand the mechanics behind their operation.

They're also notoriously finicky when you change their original configuration, or so I've read.

I've been wanting to build a compensated one for awhile now, just never can find the time.

Last edited by cleatis1234; 04-29-2011 at 07:38 AM.
 
Old 04-28-2011, 10:23 PM   #8
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I know its been awhile since my last post on this thread, so a quick update. The barrel in question is not a schuemann its a early KKM.I was mistaken because of the comp. Got ahold of them, and ended uptaking a couple of thou off the bottom locking surface. Didn't bring it up to function, so, I have a couple of springs on order from brownells.Gonna try that 11 # sugestion. I only order once a month from them thats why this is dragging. Anybody know the exstractor tension for a glock? Is tight good?
 
Old 04-29-2011, 07:29 AM   #9
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"Gonna try that 11 # sugestion."
Make sure if you go with the 11 pound recoil spring, you also use the lower powered striker spring. You probably don't want the gun firing out of battery, I'm guessing that wouldn't be a fun experience.

You shouldn't have any ignition issues, I've had the lower power striker spring in both of my Glocks for years/thousands of rounds with nary a problem.

"Anybody know the exstractor tension for a glock? Is tight good?"
Don't know the actual number value, but since the extractor tension is controlled by a spring, I am assuming that whatever it is is what it is supposed to be (provided you have a factory Glock extractor spring in the gun). You did mention that it is in a Caspian slide, you may want to check to ensure the extractor travel is within the proper limits, I have no numbers for this, I'd check with a Glock slide side-by-side.

Also make sure you have the correct extractor spring unit; apparently they have different units for the extractor with the LCI than the original extractor which came sans LCI (Loaded Chamber Indicator). One spring has the black teflon extension (not sure if this is the correct name for the part), the other has white. Can't say which has which, check Brownells site for pics.
You can check the engagement surfaces, remove any burrs you may find, ensure they're not snagging on anything, and take out the spring and make sure the extractor works smoothly with no hitches or rubbing. I don't see how that will affect the gun cycling though.

Last edited by cleatis1234; 04-29-2011 at 07:34 AM.
 
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