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![]() | #1 |
Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Athens, TN
Posts: 6
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I just bought a Hi-Standard Supermatic Trophy Military. Gun looks used very little. The problem is when slide is back and a loaded mag is inserted, when the slide is released it loads OK but decocks it's self. This requires me to recock by puling back on the slide. As long as the slide is put back foreward slowly it remains cocked and will fire, howere when that round is fired and the next round is loaded again, the gun is de cocked. In other words when the slide moves foreward rapidly it decocks when the slide is allowed to move foreward slowly by hand it remains cocked. this is regardless of wheather or not a finger is on the trigger. Any Ideas?
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![]() | #2 |
Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: New Port Richey
Posts: 169
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Hammer follow. Take it to a qualified gunsmith for repair. Do not shoot until it is inspected.
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![]() | #3 |
Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,800
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Exactly. For any number of reasons, the sear and hammer doesn't have proper engagement and when the slide closes the impact causes the hammer to "jar off" and drop. Could be impacted old grease and crud, or someone did a bad "trigger job" and got it wrong, or who knows? STOP SHOOTING IT. The next stage of this is the gun goes full-auto and fires a burst before jamming if it doesn't go ahead and empty the magazine. See a gunsmith. |
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![]() | #4 |
Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Athens, TN
Posts: 6
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My thoughts are that someone did a bad trigger job on it. The pull is extremely light. I just bought a disassebly manual so I will remove the trigger and sear and check for grind work. Will get back thanks a bunch.
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![]() | #5 |
Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: NC
Posts: 10
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That is definitely not a DIY project and if you find "grind" marks what will you be able to do about it? Also, the sear and hammer are the problem not the trigger. See a gunsmith ! |
![]() | #6 |
Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Athens, TN
Posts: 6
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I believe I may have found the problem. It always helps to have a reference manual before attempting to make repairs or adjustments. BTW I have built, repaired, and made adjustments to guns for 40 years but I usually work on 1911s mostly. This gun has a sear adjustment screw on the back of the frame. I noticed it was screwed in quite a bit. The diagram shows a plunger pin the the screw pushes against. I removed the screw and attempted to remove the plunger pin. Guess what? There is no plunger! It is missing. According to the manual this would make the trigger pull extreemly light. So I have ordered a plunger from Numrich Arms. May be as simple as that. I will let you know when I get the part.
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![]() | #7 |
Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,800
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A missing part will definitely cause problems.
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![]() | #8 |
Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Athens, TN
Posts: 6
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Update: Received the plunger and tried to install it but no luck so decided to remove the hammer and sear. After doing so I found that the original plunger was in the gun but definitly stuck. Removed it and cleaned it thoroughly and removed a large burr on the screw end, it now drops through the adjustment passage freely. The sear looks new, so I reinstalled it, but the hammer landing where the sear engages looked very worn. So at this point I have decided to replace the hammer and have ordered the part. More later. ![]() |
![]() | #9 |
Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,800
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Ah, yes, another one of those "little" jobs that tends to balloon . ![]() |
![]() | #10 |
Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: New Port Richey
Posts: 169
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"While I'm in there..." are the most expensive words spoken by mankind.
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