Heavy Trigger Pull on Kimber's Micro 9 - Pistolsmith

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Old 01-18-2017, 05:28 PM   #1
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5
Heavy Trigger Pull on Kimber's Micro 9

Howdy, Everyone!

I’d like to share with y’all some issues I’ve discovered with the Kimber Micro 9. This is a superlatively accurate, powerful, and concealable little gun, relatively comfortable to shoot, with excellent sights and recoil management. However….

This tale begins with an article by Ed Head entitled “The Bane Drill” (NRA Shooting Illustrated, October 2016). Briefly, the author exhorts us to seek precision accuracy from our personal defense weapons by practicing to achieve five “head” shots on a 6” x 6” target at 25 yards, and five torso shots on a 10” x 10” target at 50 yards. Now, in the hands of a competent shooter, the Kimber Micro 9 is perfectly capable of accomplishing this even when fired from a modified Weaver stance. The problem (and my primary issue with the Micro 9) is the weapon’s exceptionally heavy trigger pull, which makes aimed rapid fire extremely difficult, seriously constraining the weapon’s utility in most “active shooter” scenarios.

Thus began my search for a means of reducing the 8.47 lb. pull of my Micro 9. The first call, to Kimber, disclosed that the company did not provide trigger work on any of its Micros. The second call, to a renowned custom smithing company in Louisiana, revealed that because the Micro 9 was not truly a scaled-down 1911, that company could not offer a trigger job. The company’s agent, however, recommended that I contact Cylinder & Slide for one of its drop-in hammer kits. This I did, receiving the following almost immediate and very detailed reply, which I believe you will find of interest:

“[Company X’s agent] must have thought that the Micro 9 is a 1911 design and one of our 1911 drop-in hammer sets would work in it. The Micro 9 is a scaled-up copy of the Colt Mustang 380. We do not offer a drop-in hammer set for the Colt 380 family of pistols or the scaled up 9mm versions. Due to the nature of the Colt 380 design, the weight of the hammer spring needs to be increased significantly in the 9mm version to keep slide velocities reasonable. In addition, when scaling the pistol up for the 9mm cartridge, the engineers left the sear pin the same diameter as the 380 version. Due to these two conditions we will not perform trigger work on the 9mm Colt 380 pistols (SIG 938 or Kimber Micro 9). Sorry we can’t help you on this one, but thank you for thinking of us for your custom handgun needs. Regards, C&S”

So, Foax, the long and short of it is that you are unlikely to find a means for safely reducing the trigger pulls of your Micro 9s. Of course, if you try, you will absolutely void the firearm’s warranty. (Then again, the Micro 9’s warranty itself is good only for 12 months from date of purchase.)

Anyway, I’m up for your suggestions — any takers?
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Old 01-20-2017, 06:37 PM   #2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,801
C&S are world class gunsmiths so I'd tend to take their word for it.

You might get a second opinion from Frank Glenn.
He's a Master pistolsmith. He does factory level work on Colt revolvers so he's knows what he's doing.

Frank Glenn-Glenn Custom Complete Gunsmithing Service Glendale AZ

If he says "No", then you're probably down to buying a different pistol.

Of course you could also ask Clarke and Wilson for an opinion.
Old 05-24-2018, 09:28 PM   #3
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 13
Any decent smith should be able to get it down to a crisp 5 lbs, at worst, and get rid of the overtravel. You'll should buy a spare sear and hammer, so that you can put the gun back to its original state if your trigger work proves unsatifactory! :-) You might want to notch the top edge of the sear and narrow the half cock notch from both sides, as Colt does for their Gold Cup.

IF you lay a feeler gauge in the hammer's full cock notch, and use a stone and marks alot pen ink, you can measure the depth of the fullcock hooks on the hammer. Use the marksalot pen on the feeler gauge, pass the stone over it and the hooks, until ou see the stone marking the gauge. That gauge's thickness is the depth of your hammer notches.

Use a caliper to measure the distance between sear pin and hammer pin, and compare to that of a 1911. Also, check the angle of that relationship. If they are close to those of the 1911, within a few degrees and a few thouandths of an inch (which they probably are) then you can use a stone to cut the hammer notches down to .220" deep (smiths take them down to .016" for a match 19ll. Square out the notch by moving the HAMMER on the stone, not the stone across the hammer. Use Dyekem layout blue or majic marker ink to see where the sear and hammer engage. before cutting on anything, and afterwards, too. use a stone to bevel off the rear 1/3rd of the sear's top edge, so that it engages only the front 2/3rds of the hammer notches. Dont practice with heavy loads. Do your practicing with another, similar gun and shoot the pocket 9mm's very little. I recommend a 125 gr lrn at about 800 fps for those guns. 380 type stuff, cause that's all that they can handle for 1000's of rounds. A pin set into the frame, located where it will stop the rearward movement of the trigger-bar, will
serve to limit overtravel, which helps a lot on the shooting end of things. Do all this on the replacement hammer and sear, AFTER having tested them to make sure that they work BEFORE you cut on them. I'd use a torch and Brownell's case hardening compound to reharden the hammer and sear surfaces after I got done.

A smith will charge you over $150 for this experimental work, and the parts will cost you well over $50. You might try Sig P938 parts, might be a lot cheaper, since the gun is and they seem to be identical, other than the ducktail tang on the Kimber.
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Last edited by hereby; 05-24-2018 at 10:06 PM.

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