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Old 01-04-2003, 12:16 PM   #21
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M. Hall's Avatar
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,141
Not that I ever doubted you Dane, but I tried your 'buff
trick, and it works great. Thanks very much!
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Old 01-05-2003, 09:12 AM   #22
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 81

ANy chance someone could post a picture of the shock buff cut and in place, I can't quite figure it out.

thank you

Old 01-10-2003, 03:20 PM   #23
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 88
WARNING I could be totally off base! For educational/discussion purposes only!

OK since it doesn't look like anyone else will bite, here is my understanding:

Below is a crude drawing of a "top down" view of a mainspring housing looking down into the shaft that contains the main spring.

The blue area is the "U" shaped piece of shock-buff.

Maybe Dane can confirm or correct.
Old 01-10-2003, 06:42 PM   #24
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Issaquah, WA
Posts: 3,831
Looks perfect to guys are amazing 8) Thanks Vincent

Make it a loose fit and make it very thin on the bottom of the "U". I have made them from leather, rubber and now buffs. Never had a problem in 20 years of doing so once they are fitted correctly. You DO NOT want the hammer strut to drag on the bottom of the U.

Old 06-05-2011, 06:02 PM   #25
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: usa
Posts: 57
it is leaving your thumb atop the speed safety

that creates the problem of "going fast' not depressing the grip safety adequately. The 'memory bump" on Wilson and other beavertail grip safeties eliminate this and the other features of a beavertail help with many other problems as well. also, the isometric tension of the 2 handed grip causes other problems, like the web of your hand being "squeezed up" where the hammer can pinch it between grip safety tang and hammer spur. Many a match has made me have all safeties functional, so if you cut off the spur inside the grip safety, have a spare, fitted and tested grip safety in your range bag at the matches.

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