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Old 01-07-2012, 10:45 PM   #11
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What? Well I wouldn't be taking a dermel tool too a brand new gun that I just paid a decent amount of change for. I would send it back to kahr.. and mine came factory polished it looks like a mirror.. but hey it came that way and it makes me happy. Now if I could just get used to this i sight it came with.
 
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:15 AM   #12
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Handgunnut, check Kahr's website, there are several sight options available, even for the CW series guns now.
 
Old 02-08-2012, 07:16 AM   #13
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On Page 16 in my manual....I had same issue 1st time at the range. Now know how to do it correctly.
 
 
Old 05-26-2012, 07:55 AM   #14
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First of all, if you polish metal with a cotton buffer you are not going to diminish the metal. 2nd, don't waste your money on a tube of Flitz for a 1/4 inch area of stainless steel. One guys says de-bur but not to a mirror shine.. Did your 700 hundred dollar gun arrive with burs on the barrel?? Sounds like a piece of junk to me. Oh and the other guy who reccomends using a qtip to polish with Flitz.. Yeah, that will get the burs out for sure. Right?
 
Old 05-26-2012, 11:06 AM   #15
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crkt, did you come to share a better way to do what they're speaking of or just to criticize what others had done. If it works in one guys experience, why does it matter whether or not you think it's worth or not. Unless you've tried it and found it to NOT work, I'd ask that you leave others advice alone.
 
Old 05-26-2012, 05:24 PM   #16
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I MUST advise you to stay away from the Dremel tool. More weapons have been ruined by the use of a Dremel tool in the hands of a kitchen table gunsmith than have ever been fixed.
 
Old 05-27-2012, 01:59 AM   #17
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Quote:
First of all, if you polish metal with a cotton buffer you are not going to diminish the metal.
And that bit of misinformation is precisely why hacks with Dremels ruin so many feed ramps.

A cotton mop spinning at 30,000 rpms generates a lot of heat in an unbelievably short time. Heat anneals steel, and the "mild" abrasive becomes more aggressive, removing a thin layer...exposing the harder steel to the mop...and the process starts over.

In 1943, there was a relatively small block of Ithaca pistols that were parkerized after the finish cut was made on the feed ramps. IIRC, there were about 300 pistols that were caught by the inspector, and he was ready to reject them and return them for repair when a Staff Sargeant suggested test-firing a few to see if it caused any problems. They selected 30 at random...test-fired...and no feed issues were noted.

They selected another 30 and got the same results. The pistols were entered into inventory and the matter was forgotten.

Mirror-polishing feed ramps isn't necessary. Custom builders do it more because it's expected than anything else. If the frame and barrel ramps are within spec, the pistols will do just fine.

My decades-long mantra:

The 1911 pistol was designed to function. If it's correctly built to spec and fed decent ammunition from proper magazines, it will function. It doesn't have a choice. It's a machine.
 
Old 07-25-2012, 08:41 PM   #18
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If you can de-bur stainless steel with a q tip, you are either a very good magician or you are the son of God! I bought a Kahr pm9 that sucked out of the box. I deburred and polished the shit out if the feed ramp as well as other parts of the barrel that had burrs. I can see my reflection in that feed ramp. You know what? It shoots fine now. So now when I sell this pistol, someone else will have a pm9 that is reliable, and I will have a Smith and Wesson that was done right the first time.
 
Old 07-26-2012, 03:25 AM   #19
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Johnny T - I love your mantra!!!
 
Old 09-02-2012, 10:23 AM   #20
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kahr is definaely a finicky firearm. For what its, worth I have had feed problems with mine. I polished everything, and it seems to have helped. The biggest factor is ammo selection. Remington has come out with the Express pistol and revolver line of ammo. It has a very round bullet nose. The hollow points are working very well for me now. Wrth trying.
 
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