|01-17-2014, 08:20 PM||#1|
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Pacific NW USA
ATI M1911GI Trigger
Never done this before.. Posting.. I have an ATI M1911GI. For an inexpensive gun it is not bad. However the trigger is heavy and not very smooth. What options do I have to lighten it up.
Hope I posted this correctly? JB
|01-18-2014, 06:35 PM||#2|
Join Date: Jun 2001
Options are whether you're up to doing a pistolsmith level job on the trigger unit, or not.
If not, you can buy and install a matched "drop-in" hammer and sear set.
These will usually go in with "little" fitting BUT...some fitting is necessary, including making sure the safety will function correctly.
Another option is to fully strip the frame, clean it out to remove the factory lubricant and gunk, then re-lubricate, including putting a dab of a good grease on the hammer notches and the sear.
Then just dry fire the gun 100 times.
Often just the cleaning, a little grease and the dry firing will go a long way to smoothing it up.
I will warn about taking any advice to "jack" or "boost" the hammer.
This is a technique that says to push hard on the hammer as you pull the trigger a few times. Real fools will advise sticking a screwdriver behind the hammer and levering it as the trigger is pulled.
This is supposed to polish and mate the hammer and sear and improve the trigger pull.
Either, ESPECIALLY the screwdriver foolishness will very often destroy the hammer and/or sear.
A far safer method is to just dry fire 100 times. That will smooth the hammer and sear interface without stressing and ruining anything.
Best option: have a qualified gunsmith do a "trigger job" for you.
A QUALIFIED gunsmith can lighten and smooth the trigger nicely without causing safety issues like "hammer follows slide" or safety doesn't work correctly, etc.
For a real gunsmith improving the 1911 trigger is a meat and potatoes job.
Last edited by dfariswheel; 01-18-2014 at 06:43 PM.
|01-19-2014, 03:56 PM||#3|
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: New Port Richey
The ATi frames usually have issues, like pin locations not matching original prints, pins being drilled crooked, etc. "Drop in" parts will most likely not be drop in.
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|03-13-2014, 05:18 PM||#4|
Join Date: Feb 2014
Buy a brownells sear jig along with at least one or more extra sears. Experiment after reading up as much as possible on trigger jobs. If you are patient you can learn how to do a very good trigger job. Just my opinion is to keep the stock parts unaltered so if you don't get it right nothing is lost. This is how I learned and I've become very good at it just by trial and error along with lots of research. All the info is on the web. EGW website is very informative as well as Brownells. Patience and lots of research will make it work. I've found that a Lansky knife sharpening set has a perfect set of stones for many gun smithing chores.
|10-31-2015, 01:47 PM||#5|
Join Date: Feb 2006
I replaced the stock mainspring that came with the pistol with a 19# mainspring and that brought the trigger weight down to about 5 pounds.
I also replaced the recoil spring with a 17# and added an extra power firing pin spring being a series 70 gun.
This of course after I cleaned the pistol and dry fired it a bit. Mine was the Military 1911a1 and your mileage may vary.
Last edited by mirroir; 10-31-2015 at 02:31 PM.
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