P-14 Failure to go into battery - Pistolsmith
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Old 01-30-2008, 04:47 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 23
P-14 Failure to go into battery

I have an older P-14 that i purchased used about 8 years ago. It functioned fine, but has since developed a serious problem. It usually doesn't lock completely. Always extracts, always picks the round off the mag, but just needs a tap to push the slide forward at least 2/3 of the time. This is obviously unnacceptable for a defensive firearm and very annoying for a shooter. I have since bought a few other handguns, but really like that one the best, as it was my first pistol. I would just sell it and buy a new similar model, but i take my gun collection to the point that i would rather invest a few dollars to fixing an already old pistol, and still have my first pistol in running condition, or if it ain't possible I'll just keep it in my [istol display cabinet with the others.

Here's the run down. I've explained the problem to a few local gunsmiths, and they all say, well, we can replace this and if it don't help then we'll replace this, and so on down the line. If I'm gonna have to pay for guess work I'll just do it myself.

I've already replaced the recoil springs with wolf heavy duty springs. didn't help. I bought six or so new spare mags from MecGar, Pro-Mag and Para. none helped. Even though it was already jamming I made the mistake to invest in a Black Teflon Finish. The gun has a scratch which became much more obvious after the finish was applied. It runs on the slide where the slide seems to be rubbing on the frame which looks to be somewhat defective. What should I do?
 
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Old 02-03-2008, 07:50 PM   #2
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 33
what kind of ammo are you running through it.. ?
you state that it had been shooting before it
just all of a sudden started this problem..
 
Old 02-06-2008, 09:24 AM   #3
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 23
Jams all the time

I've tried Remington, Winchester, Corbon, Federal brands of ammunition, and they were never hollow-points. Usually 230 grain FMJ type. I am pretty sure it's a gun, not ammo or mag problem since I have tried many mags and a lotta ammo. Yeah it kinda went all the sudden because I knew it had jammed a few years ago but not that bad, but when I decided to take it out and shoot it again it was jamming all the time. New mags, new more powerful Wolf recoil springs, new Black Teflon finish which supposedly requires less lubrication, and a professional cleaning and lubricating job and it still jams all the time. It just doesn't quite lock in. I heard something about getting rid of the shock buffers because it slows the slide down when it's ready to close. No clue if this would really help or not but I saw it on my AGI video. I just feel kinda weird throwing away a part from my pistol just because it shouldn't be there. I feel like something bad might happen if I shoot it without the shock buffer...like not just accelerated wear, but catastrophic damage. Not sure. Maybe I should post a picture of the frame and slide scratch since that might be part of it too.
 
 
Old 02-18-2008, 09:27 PM   #4
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 443
Shock buffs are real bad juju and do this kinda thing. I certainly wouldnt have one in my P-14 which has ingested thousands of rounds. Also the links in Paras aren't the best quality, put in a standard dimension tool steel pin and link if removing the plastic dealy doesn't help, they are cheap! :wink:
 
Old 02-19-2008, 05:47 AM   #5
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 951
P 16/40 LIMITED

I bought a new Para 16/40 Limited last Year.....Sorriest POS I,ve seen in a long time, A HI Point Is a better pistol. On View From The Hills Para 16/40 Lmited, You can see the report.

Bill Caldwell
 
Old 02-20-2008, 08:39 AM   #6
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 23
Para Ord Quality

Are you recommending other brands for hi-cap 1911's or just dissaproving the p-16 40? If I was interested in a hi-cap 10mm or .45acp 1911, what brand with a reasonable price is acceptable? I really am not interested at all in plastic 1911's like STI's hi caps, and am not quite ready to build my own or have on built for me from a company that makes hi-cap frames, like caspian. I will build one later, but later this year I'de like to buy a hi-cap 1911. Don't care of it's steel, aluminum, alloy, or titatnium frame. Lighter is cool, but i don't want polymer mixed into a classy pistol like a 1911. I am hoping to be into a police academy by the end of the year and want another pistol when I graduate. What brand do you recommend? Charles daly's hi-caps look kinda junky to me but maybe. As far as I know Springfield's only got either custom order or a real junky looking GI hi-cap that would have to be customized. Kimber I believe only has polymer hi-caps. STI/SVI same thing I think. Entreprise? maybe. Les Baer, probably too much for me, but maybe. I have seen pics of a hi-cap Armscor in Sweeney's 1911 Vol. 2 book, not sure about quality, looks like junk though. Am I wrong in my guess as to brand/quality? Are there any other decent non-polymer hi-cap 1911's?
 
Old 02-21-2008, 05:13 PM   #7
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1
p16-40 comment

I purchased a used p16 and it has became my favorite gun. I use it in bowling pin shoots, plate shoots, steel shoots, uspsa ect and it has never failed to feed or extract in over 4000 rounds. I have had a couple of times when the follower in the mag got stuck but that was because the mag got dirt in it from dumping to the ground on reloads.. Overall a good gun and I guess there can be a problem with any firearm. A lot depends on the shooter and their shooting form.
 
Old 02-22-2008, 04:20 AM   #8
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 23
I have hear of "limp wristing" and that the firearm won't quite go into battery if not held properly. I don't think that is the problem here because I have never had that problem from anything else in my little pistol cabinet. I guess it's possible since I don't have any formal training, but I feel like I have a solid hold on it. I just wish there was a way a gunsmith could give an exact diagnosis without having to replace every possibile part one at a time until it works. I'll try to figure out how to post a picture of the frame and maybe you can tell me if it's the problem just by looking.
 
Old 04-30-2008, 01:58 PM   #9
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 4
Is this an alloy frame? if so, does it look like the recoil spring guide has "set back" or "peened" any where it seats in the frame? also, look at the top rear end of the same part to see if the bottom lugs of the barrel have made significant contact there.. will be peened or dented if so. I have seen this happen with a few alloy frames including Springfields and Paras; usually fitting/relieving the top round area of the guide will help...
 
Old 08-09-2008, 01:01 PM   #10
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 15
Re:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordon Hulme
Shock buffs are real bad juju and do this kinda thing. :

I also recommend removing the shock buff. Try shooting the gun without the buff with the same ammo and mags as you used before. Keep a written log of the results. Then if that doesn't fix the problem I 'd go to a reputable pistolsmith and have him ID the problem for you.
 
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