22/45 trigger pull - Pistolsmith

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Old 03-26-2004, 08:53 AM   #1
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 7
22/45 trigger pull

A little help, please! I have a 22/45 I use in bullseye competition. The trigger is smooth and breaks right at 2 pounds. However, the length of pull is much too long. So, my question is, to shorten the pull, do I hone down the height of the hammer notch or do I focus on the sear? My mechanical intuition tells me the former is correct but before I go messing things up, I'd like comment from someone who knows what he is talking about!

I would appreciate hearing from anyone who can tell me how to go about this mocification. Many thanks, jcbuck
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Old 08-08-2004, 01:09 PM   #2
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 76
This is my first visit to this Ruger site. I see no response to your question so even though it's OLD, here's my 2 cents worth. You're right about getting rid of the excess travel prior to break...you reduce the height of the hammer hook, and polish the contact point.
You should also hit the sear with an extra fine stone to remove all those factory 'file' marks, and then mirror polish it...I usually even wind up by using a felt bobb and some white jeweler's rouge.
BTW, the "excess travel" you refer to is, I assume, AFTER you've gone through the original 'takeup' in the trigger. If this is not the case, the above is not relevant.

Old 08-09-2004, 08:11 AM   #3
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 7
Thanks for the reply, Bob. In the absence of replies I took the bull by the horns and lowered that hammer notch a little at a time. Unfortunately, when I got it to where it broke as desired, it sometimes went double. I learned from the drill! I had another hammer and with the old sear had a tirgger adequate for the Nationals in July. Now I intend to try deepening the old hammer notch to see if it is salvagable.

Thanks for the advice. Joe
Old 08-09-2004, 09:25 AM   #4
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 76
You can usually save a too-short hammer hook. Just lower the ledge below it. What height are the hooks at now? The reason I ask...if they're about .018, they're not too short. .020 is better for hardball, but I've seen some cut to .016 for wad guns.
You may need to just change the angle on the sear crown a little, and if you have a Powers jig, that's a snap.

Old 08-17-2004, 08:20 AM   #5
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 3
Safety - Safety - Safety

Lowering the depth of the hammer notch on a Ruger by filing back the front surface will often cause a safety problem such that if you pull the trigger with the safety on and then drop the saftey the gun will fire without pulling the trigger. This will surely happen if you have cut back the notch to such a degree that it doubles and then lower the notch to correct this situation. The malfunctioning safety can be cured by peening the inside of the tip of the safety hook to move a little metal back to apply appropriate pressure to the sear when the safety is engaged. If you move a lot of metal back, you may have to file the rear of the notch to provide clearance for the sear. Remember that the bullseye rules state that all factory safeties on the gun have to be present and operative.
Old 05-28-2010, 08:41 AM   #6
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Location: Washington
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Install a Clark Target Trigger available through Brownells for $30.00 plus shipping. That will solve the movement problem that you described.

I advise extreme caution when approaching the work regarding the hammer notch and sear! First of all, if you can obtain the Volquartzen Target Sear and Hammer, they will provide a vast improvement on ridding the creep felt when pulling the trigger. Even minute changes in the sears surface angle can be disasterous, so using a felt wheel and jewelers rouge (red) to lightly polish that surface will help as will the same procedure on the hammer notch.

If the hammer notch is reduced "too much" and each gun determines it's own "too much" condition, I agree with the gentlemen's recommendation of peening the safety to bring the safety back into a positive working condition, but final fitting of that must be done carefully to avoid going to far and then having to start over. I have had to do this fix twice and found that heating the notch portion to just red hot then gently tapping the nose of the notch to "close" it down a bit works much better, then final fitting can be performed.

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