ruger blackhawk problems

badmojoman · 07-27-2010, 12:19 PM

PLEASE HELP
I recently obtained in trade an old model 1959 Ruger Blackhawk flattop 357 and I'm experiencing some problems.

Could someone PLEASE tell me how to change the firing pin rebound spring?
I've done some gunsmithing on rifles and semiauto pistols but never revolvers.
Thanks,
Craig
Blackhawk problem - Ruger Forum

retDAC · 07-27-2010, 06:57 PM

If the chamber(s) aren't rough and if the shoulders are proper depth for .357, then I'd try some different ammo.

JohnnyT · 07-29-2010, 03:21 PM

Has it been converted to the transfer bar ignition? If it has, check the see if the transfer bar is hanging up on the firing pin. If it's not, check the base pin to see if the tit is worn and not pushing the transfer bar back far enough to clear. Check also to see if the base pin is moving forward when the gun recoils.

If all that is in working order, check to see if the bolt is dropping in time to release the cylinder when the hammer starts cocking.

badmojoman · 07-29-2010, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by retDAC

If the chamber(s) aren't rough and if the shoulders are proper depth for .357, then I'd try some different ammo.

I found out that the spring is fine. I was using Winchester white box 357JHP.
I will try some different 357 ammo. The 38 special wadcutter reloads I tried worked.

badmojoman · 07-29-2010, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnyT

Has it been converted to the transfer bar ignition? If it has, check the see if the transfer bar is hanging up on the firing pin. If it's not, check the base pin to see if the tit is worn and not pushing the transfer bar back far enough to clear.

If all that is in working order, check to see if the bolt is dropping in time to release the cylinder when the hammer starts cocking.

How do I find out if it has been converted?

JohnnyT · 07-29-2010, 04:01 PM

Cock the hammer and look to see if thre's a thin plate that covers about half the firing pin.

The quick-check is to lower the hammer and look between the rear of the cylinder and the recoil shield. If you can see the tip of the firing pin protruding, it hasn't been converted. If you see it...it has.

badmojoman · 07-29-2010, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnyT

Cock the hammer and look to see if thre's a thin plate that covers about half the firing pin.

The quick-check is to lower the hammer and look between the rear of the cylinder and the recoil shield. If you can see the tip of the firing pin protruding, it hasn't been converted. If you see it...it has.

No, it HASN'T been converted. This may sound like a really stupid question but what or where is the base pin?

If it is what I think it is....Is it what holds the Cylinder in?

JohnnyT · 07-30-2010, 02:27 PM

Yep. It's the axle that the cylinder spins on.

Since it hasn't been converted, the next place to look is the cylinder stop bolt. It's that little half moon-shaped protrusion that moves up and down in the bottom of the frame window and engages the half moon keyway cuts in the cylinder. If the bolt doesn't drop...or doesn't drop in time to let the cylinder turn when you thumb the hammer back...the whole works comes to a halt. You can watch it by holding the gun sideways and cocking the hammer while you look closely between the bottom of the cylinder and frame. It should drop as soon as the hammer starts to move.

07-27-2010, 12:19 PM	#1
badmojoman Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Iowa Posts: 6	Blackhawk problems PLEASE HELP I recently obtained in trade an old model 1959 Ruger Blackhawk flattop 357 and I'm experiencing some problems. Could someone PLEASE tell me how to change the firing pin rebound spring? I've done some gunsmithing on rifles and semiauto pistols but never revolvers. Thanks, Craig Blackhawk problem - Ruger Forum

07-29-2010, 03:21 PM	#3
JohnnyT Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: North Carolina Posts: 724	Has it been converted to the transfer bar ignition? If it has, check the see if the transfer bar is hanging up on the firing pin. If it's not, check the base pin to see if the tit is worn and not pushing the transfer bar back far enough to clear. Check also to see if the base pin is moving forward when the gun recoils. If all that is in working order, check to see if the bolt is dropping in time to release the cylinder when the hammer starts cocking. Last edited by JohnnyT; 07-29-2010 at 03:23 PM.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Super Blackhawk HELP!	Pistol Meister	Revolvers	0	04-21-2009 04:44 PM
Ruger Blackhawk 9mm	Joe Ford	Revolvers	2	07-03-2006 03:17 PM
Blackhawk tuneing	ekaphoto	Revolvers	0	07-01-2006 09:55 AM
Ruger Blackhawk	jimmyj	Gun Talk	0	08-27-2003 02:25 PM

how to fix the base pin problem of the ruger blackhawk

old model ruger blackhawk lock work problems

problems with ruger blackhawk revolvers

ruger blackhawk 357 problems

ruger blackhawk base pin problems

ruger blackhawk problems

ruger super black hawk pin problems

ruger super blackhawk problems

super blackhawk problems

07-27-2010, 06:57 PM	#2
retDAC Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: near Huntsville, Ala. Posts: 707	If the chamber(s) aren't rough and if the shoulders are proper depth for .357, then I'd try some different ammo.

07-29-2010, 04:01 PM	#6
JohnnyT Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: North Carolina Posts: 724	Cock the hammer and look to see if thre's a thin plate that covers about half the firing pin. The quick-check is to lower the hammer and look between the rear of the cylinder and the recoil shield. If you can see the tip of the firing pin protruding, it hasn't been converted. If you see it...it has.

07-30-2010, 02:27 PM	#8
JohnnyT Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: North Carolina Posts: 724	Yep. It's the axle that the cylinder spins on. Since it hasn't been converted, the next place to look is the cylinder stop bolt. It's that little half moon-shaped protrusion that moves up and down in the bottom of the frame window and engages the half moon keyway cuts in the cylinder. If the bolt doesn't drop...or doesn't drop in time to let the cylinder turn when you thumb the hammer back...the whole works comes to a halt. You can watch it by holding the gun sideways and cocking the hammer while you look closely between the bottom of the cylinder and frame. It should drop as soon as the hammer starts to move.