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Old 08-28-2011, 02:52 PM   #1
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Need to Thread

I had a gunsmith at one time thread a barrel for me. He claimed a 'device' could attach to the lathe and he never had to remove barrel from receiver. Said device came from Brownells. This was on a clone HK 91. And he did a good job! I could never find out what the device was and now I would like to have a buddy thread a barrel for me without removing it from the action. Any suggestions? Thanks!
 
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Old 08-28-2011, 06:50 PM   #2
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I'm not sure what he was talking about, but there are threading kits that can thread a barrel by hand, without a lathe.

These kits have a threading die and a "TAT" or Thread Alignment Tool.
The "tool" is a stud that's a snug fit in the barrel. It's screwed into the die and act as an alignment device to keep the die square with the barrel.
A lot of people have used these kits to thread AK barrels and un-threaded AR barrels made during the Assault Weapons Ban.

All you need is the kit, a die handle, and some tapping and threading fluid from the hardware store.

These kits are very simple to use and you have to work at it to botch it up.
They are rather expensive for a one-time job.
They come in different threads, and with TAT's for different caliber weapons.
The HK 91 uses a 15x1 thread.

Here's some info:

Threading Kits

Threading instructions:
Threading Guide

Brownells Search : Search Results for "dies" - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

Last edited by dfariswheel; 08-28-2011 at 06:53 PM.
 
Old 08-29-2011, 12:35 PM   #3
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Thanks. Do I need threading fluid or oil will work?

Last edited by goldeagle; 08-29-2011 at 12:42 PM.
 
 
Old 08-29-2011, 09:40 PM   #4
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Threading fluid works far better.
No worry, it's a couple of dollars at most at most hardware stores.

A few pointers:
WARNING, the dies cuts off chips that are like tiny razors. They'll stick into your shoe soles and will cut a floor to ribbons when you walk across it.
Step on one with a bare foot and it'll cut you to ribbons.

Before threading, stuff a couple of pieces of paper towel about 3 inches down the bore. This will prevent chips from dropping into the action.

Make a large aluminum foil cone and tape it around the barrel, lower down. This makes a chip catcher.

Use PLENTY of threading fluid.

Back the die off so it cuts shallower threads the first pass, then tighten it to finish the cut. Die handles have adjustments to close the die and cut deeper threads, or open the die and cut shallower threads.

To thread up close to a sight, flip the die over after the threads are cut. One side usually is beveled and the other side has no bevel so it will thread up flush against a sight or other barrel fixture.

Rotate the die until you feel it tighten, then back it off to clear the chips. You thread by rotating forward a partial turn then backing off, then forward again.
Take it slow.
 
Old 03-02-2012, 10:48 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfariswheel View Post
Threading fluid works far better.
No worry, it's a couple of dollars at most at most hardware stores.

A few pointers:
WARNING, the dies cuts off chips that are like tiny razors. They'll stick into your shoe soles and will cut a floor to ribbons when you walk across it.
Step on one with a bare foot and it'll cut you to ribbons.

Before threading, stuff a couple of pieces of paper towel about 3 inches down the bore. This will prevent chips from dropping into the action.

Make a large aluminum foil cone and tape it around the barrel, lower down. This makes a chip catcher.

Use PLENTY of threading fluid.

Back the die off so it cuts shallower threads the first pass, then tighten it to finish the cut. Die handles have adjustments to close the die and cut deeper threads, or open the die and cut shallower threads.

To thread up close to a sight, flip the die over after the threads are cut. One side usually is beveled and the other side has no bevel so it will thread up flush against a sight or other barrel fixture.

Rotate the die until you feel it tighten, then back it off to clear the chips. You thread by rotating forward a partial turn then backing off, then forward again.
Take it slow.
Will this work on tapered Ruger rifle barrels? Thanks!
 
Old 03-02-2012, 06:23 PM   #6
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"Probably".

Since a tapered rifle barrel usually has a very shallow taper at the muzzle end, a threading kit should work.
You're only issue will be in finding a threading die that will fit the diameter of the barrel at the muzzle and a TAT that will fit the bore.
 
Old 03-04-2012, 01:46 PM   #7
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Doesn't look like Precise Innovations can fill orders at this time? See 'please note' Gun Accessories


Anyone else have something reliable??? Thanks! Again.
 
Old 03-04-2012, 05:14 PM   #8
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Depending on what you need, Midway sell kits, and Brownell's does or did:

Taps & Dies | Gunsmithing Tools | Gunsmithing & Gun Parts |

They also sell a kit for the AK that does left hand threads.
 
Old 03-05-2012, 04:05 PM   #9
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Thanks so much dfariswheel! For now am looking to thread above mentioned Rugers. Hoping to get T.A.T. (Threading Alignment Tool) with kits. Will check out your links!
 
Old 10-01-2012, 10:41 AM   #10
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Sorry for coming in late on this thread... but I have a related question.

I am facing this situation. I would like to thread a heavy-barrel rifle barrel, .308 cal. The muzzle-end is something like 0.815-0.825" diameter. Obviously, with a heavy-barrel taper, it is yet a bit thicker as you move closer to the receiver.

I want to thread the end of the barrel to 5/8"-24. However, if you compare the thread size to the barrel muzzle OD size, the amount of material to remove is about 0.200" ( diametral measurement... = 0.100" radial).

5/8" = 0.625
OD = 0.825

diametral difference= 0.200.... radial difference is 0.100"

Is this too much metal to remove with a home-kit / TAT / threading kit ???? Or..must the barrel *first* be turned-down before a home-brew threading kit for 5/8-24 can be used?

Last edited by IPSC; 10-01-2012 at 10:48 AM.
 
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