DTHughes

I have a 1950 2" M&P .38 special. Got it right because it was totally frozen from congealed oil in the mechanism. Reviewed the AGI video and my books, took it apart and clearned it up. Works like a charm except that if I short stroke the double action (allow trigger to return to first 'click') and then try to pull trigger again, the action locks down tight. It looks like the hand is jamming agains the right edge of its window. I'm loath to widen the window or bend the hand. Anyone have any suggestions, or should I send this to a qualified revolvers smith? Or maybe I should just learn to allow the trigger full play.
Thanks.
Dave

dfariswheel

The trigger will lock up if you fail to allow it to return all the way.
This is totally normal.

You need to practice enough to stop failing to allow the action to reset.

DTHughes

Dang. I was afraid there was not going to be a magic Brownells kit to fix it. Odd as may seem, I think that part of the problem is that the gun, though 60 years old, is so new the lockwork hasn't set in yet.

Thanks dfariswheel.

Dave

Wild Bill Caldwell

Once You get all the gunk out of this one , an absoultly clean , soak everthing but the grips in the best Mobile 1 syn , wouldn't hurt to warm all the parts and frame up some , let it set a few days , wipe all the excess oil off and if it is 60 yrs old an UNSMITHED I'll bet it works like it was meant to ..I've talked to Jerry M. lots of times about what He does to His revos , gist is ....makes a few springs stronger , weakens none , unless there are burrs to remove ,doesn't polish much...most of the time it ain't the tool , it is the hand...Jerry can shoot the HELL out of an RG...He is a HAND

Wild Bill

Sarge405

I was talking with one one if my usual cohorts who happens to be a retired AMU/MTU MSGT. and the topic of revolver work came up. He said when he's done doing the metal work he'll put generous amounts of lube inside. His favorite right now is SuperLube PFTE because it contains teflon particles. He told me to try it on my 1911 rails and lugs too.

DTHughes

Thanks, all, for the suggestions. I think I'll back up and use some simple green or some such for a soak and clean (just used BreakFree and elbow grease and a coarse rag first time through). I say new and 60 yo -- have the S&W letter with delivery date in Sept. 1950. There is a very faint ring on the cylinder, no mark on the forcing cone or indication of lead or copper marking in the barrel. I think the seller was telling the truth when he said the estate he bought it from indicated it was unfired. Think it will be a nice addition since it was delivered at almost the same time I was <grin>

Sarge405

Hey DT,
Forgot to say congrats on getting the fine piece. I once was given an M&P like new with the box form a Sheriff I met back in the 70s. Had it in the office safe. This in Texas and I was leaving for Va. Turned out to be one his dept. had bought from a hardware store in 1935 and just never issued. Man if I only knew then what I know now!!!!!!!!

DTHughes

Thanks, Sarge. I think it's going to be pretty sharp once I get it cleaned up and all the bugs worked out.

one eye joe

I'd love to see some pics of that one when you're done, DT. Sounds like a beaut. Congrats, and WELCOME to the Forum.......

dfariswheel

I also used Super Lube for my own and customer guns.

Super Lube is synthetic Teflon bearing, clear-white lube good from -65 to +450.
It comes as a true grease, which I used on slide rails and on the hammer and trigger interfaces of revolvers.
I also used Super Lube oil on internals.
The "oil" is a thick oil-thin grease consistence that stays put, won't evaporate or dry out, or run or wick off.

You can buy small oilers of the oil and tubes of the grease to try at Midway:

MidwayUSA - Advanced Search

I always bought cans of the grease and 4 ounce bottles of the oil direct from Synco:

Grease | Oil | Synthetic Lubricants

I've opened up customer guns that I'd serviced 10 years before and the Super Lube oil and grease were still present and working.
However, I still use CLP Breakfree as a rust preventive coating inside guns.
I apply as thin a coat as possible by "scrubbing" the gun with a toothbrush with a little CLP on it. This prevents any rust, and for this, works better than the Super Lube seems to.
After applying a very thin coat of the CLP, I actually lubricated with the Super Lube.