|06-08-2016, 02:30 PM||#1|
Join Date: Jun 2016
Barrel is turned
I bought a old 5" hand ejector for $175 because it did not function. I found that the main spring just wasn't connected. Ok fine, I'm happy now until I find that it shoots about 4" left at 17 yards. Got to looking and danged if the barrel isn't turned to the right a bit. I plan to take it to a real GS and have him fix it, but have a question. To turn the barrel I assume the pin is removed and then refit, maybe with some Loctite? Just curious, I have no plan to mess with it.
|06-08-2016, 05:05 PM||#2|
Join Date: Jun 2001
Depends on several things.
First, if the job is done by a genuine pistolsmith qualified on S&W revolvers, or the local general gunsmith who may not have the correct tools, or even be aware of the correct procedure.
Second, is the barrel turned too far, or not far enough?
Third, is the barrel the original barrel or is it a replacement someone may not have installed correctly to start with?
If the barrel isn't screwed in all the way in, how much is it off?
If the barrel is just slightly off, it can be a fairly simple job of doing a small amount of refitting, reinstalling the pin, then checking the barrel-cylinder gap for a correct gap.
If it's off by a little too much the barrel will have to have the shoulder trimmed slightly either on a lathe or with a bench top shoulder cutting tool to get it to properly torque at 12:00 o'clock top-dead-center.
Then most likely the rear of the barrel will need to be trimmed to re-set the barrel-cylinder gap, and the forcing cone re-cut, gaged, then lapped smooth.
Re-cutting the rear of the barrel and re-cutting the forcing cone require an expensive tool set that works down the barrel with special cutter heads.
The cone has to be gaged with a special plug gage, then another brass head is used with valve grinding compound to lap it smooth.
If the barrel is in too far, the barrel shoulder has to be trimmer back one complete thread so the barrel can be torqued to 12:00 o'clock top-dead-center.
This will also require work on the ejector rod assembly to account for the slightly shorter barrel which was set back one thread.
Then the barrel has to be trimmed with the cutter tool to set the proper barrel-cylinder gap, then the special cutter is used to re-cut the forcing cone which requires the plug gage to gage it.
Finish is lapping the cone smooth.
If the barrel is a replacement which was not installed correctly to start with, all bets are off, since if they botched it up by not getting the barrel in properly aligned, it's likely they didn't set the barrel-cylinder gap properly, may have filed it to set it, usually making the rear of the barrel uneven, and probably didn't even know the forcing cone was there, much less have properly re-worked it.
If the barrel is not properly aligned, I doubt it was done at the factory, so trust NOTHING, suspect EVERYTHING.
The key here is making sure your pistolsmith really does know what he's doing AND actually does have the correct tooling.
As a suggestion tell him you're interesting in how it's done and would like to see some of the tools used.
Ask him about what degree a forcing cone cutter he plans on using.
Ask to see his forcing cone plug gage.
Ask to see his frame wrench and the form fitted polymer inserts that fit THAT specific size of S&W frame.
If you get a deer in the headlights look to any of this or evasions....... go elsewhere.
If you don't you run a high risk the "gunsmith" (who may have a great local reputation) may put the barrel in a padded vise and stick a hammer handle through it to remove or tighten the barrel.
Result is a cracked or bent frame, or a gun that just never seems to shoot right.
The old S&W models have the barrel torqued in place, the pin is simply a "belt and suspenders" addition that was so unnecessary, S&W dropped it years ago.
Last, Loctite is NEVER EVER used to "glue" a barrel in.
Last edited by dfariswheel; 06-08-2016 at 05:12 PM.